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Nov 19 2007
When I start a project I usually have a plan, a flexible plan but still a solid idea in my head of what I want to end up with. The Black & White Bustle (TM) however, not so much. I have a vague sort of idea and I have materials and trims to use but beyond that...

My inspiration began (back when this was my Fire costume) with the first two fashion plates. I still really liked those plates, particularly the Vest Basque and horizontal decoration along the front.

I've spent some time this week trying to hone my vision for this project. Going through Demode's index helped immensely (seriously Kendra if you ever take that off your website I'll have to stop costuming!), as did the fashion plates on Festive Attyre. The bustle goodness over on awesomecostume has been helpful as well.

All that to say I've figured out what I want in terms of the skirts and bustle. I love the lines of this wedding gown (found on e-bay) and plate (from Festive Attyre).

The upshot is I've decided I bought the wrong pattern for my bustle skirt. The more I look at TV216, the less I like it for this project. The way the back is constructed is not at all what I had in mind.

This isn't helping my overall feeling of being very stupid and insecure over this whole project.

I think I could puzzle it out, using techniques and pieces from my two TV patterns (TV216, TV201) plus the aid of Hunnisett. My only question is should I make full underskirt/overskirt or seam it all together hiding the join with a false side panel?

*sigh* Or should I just ditch the Victorian thing for another year and use the faille for a robe à la française?

Nov 20
Per the suggestion of several of my costuming friends I posted my questions on the TV board. Apparently I confused a 1870s fashion plate with an 1880s wedding gown. How embarrassing! My response:

Umm... oops! I wasn't looking at the dates when searching my files, I didn't realize the extent gown was so late. So perhaps it's not the best example of what I was looking for. I don't intend to copy the decoration per-say (or the bodice, I'm using TV405). What I liked was the line and proportions of the skirt/pouf/overskirt.

I'm not into the aprons and swags in front so I like the idea of that decorated flat front, pouf behind as shown in these 1875 fashion plates:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p75/may1.html (left green)
http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p75/sep1.html (middle blue)
http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p75/jul9.html

I'm really bad at translating the plates into reality though and couldn't tell if it was separate (full underskirt) or sewn together (false like TV216). I'm guessing now that either is acceptable for the 1870s? Thanks for you help and advice!

Clear as mud? Yep, thought so. :P

I didn't get too much done today as I was trying to take it easy (want to shake this illness thank you!). At first I was very taken with the idea of a separate underskirt with the thought I could use it for a later costume too. There were good reasons to do all one piece though. The factor that decided me on one piece was that I don't have enough of the black lace & trim (for the front) to go all the way around anyway, so why bother. Also having less to pack and iron at CC is only a good thing. :P

I tackled the back first, which I'm forging ahead on without getting another pattern. Based on the descriptions on the TV website, the patterns I have, Hunnisett and Arnold I think I can do it myself. I decided to make the back two widths wide and 65" long. It's probably way too long but better long than short, yes?

I seamed the panels then cut the sides at an angle. My fabric is a lovely winter-white faille that came from misslemmon (thanks again - you are too wonderful!). It had been sitting on a shelf for a while with one end discolored from the sun. Oxiclean got most of it out but it's still discolored on one salvage. I was seeing angles in Arnold so I went with that. Now I'm wondering if I should have angled it more (giving less volume at the top) but I want to get it on Narcissa and play first. I can always trim it down later.

I then turned my attention to the netting (recommended to reinforce the puffs). I eyeballed how long and wide I thought it should be, seamed it down the center and pinned it to skirt. I trimmed off the access and basted it on the top and sides. I started tracing out the front skirt pieces (from TV201) but I'm ready for bed so I'll finish that in the morning.

So decent progress, if even if it doesn't look like much. All the hassle with the netting was worth it, I already love the weight and drape of that section. I'm wondering if I should do the whole panel now instead of just the top third. I'm also wondering if I should flat line the whole thing. The fabric is surprisingly sheer and it might drape better too... Or maybe that is overkill.

Nov 21

So what do you think?! I adore it!!! *giggles inside* The lace and tassels are courtesy of Mom. They were on her original Civil War outfit, when we starting re-enacting in 1989. See - waste not, want not! The lace is in surprisingly good shape, no sign of dry rotting or anything. It looks and feels brand new and is so soft and delicate. The tassels are a bit worn but for free I can deal with it. Besides they bring back so many memories of my childhood!

I had great fun laying out the lace. In the end I decided I liked it less concave and graduated in the spacing. I have no idea if it's period or not but it was more visually interesting. Once I'd figured out the design, I measured each side to make sure everything was even, pinned the lace and sewed on the side back panels. The tassels were then pinned and the ivory lace draped on once I had it all pinned to Narcissa.

I wasn't sure about the strip of ivory lace on the side at first but I really like it now. The ivory lace will be on the bodice more (as an overlay on the vest & collar, and at the sleeves) so I like the idea of a bit of it on the skirt. I'm thinking of adding a flounce at the bottom of the front, either of the ivory lace or self fabric but I want to finish off the hem first and see what it looks like.

So on to the back puffy panel! I do have one question though, is it better/more accurate to use knife pleats or cartridge pleating (to pleat to the waistband)? And should they be large or small pleats? The pattern just says "pleat". Not that helpful really.

Nov 22

I roughly pleated up the back & then pinned together the back poof. It's all very rough but it looks pretty good to me! I really just wanted to know I was on the right track. I pinned according to the measurements on TV216 for the side pleat and back tie placement. Looks pretty true so I'm just going to go with them, maybe lengthening the middle tie a bit. (come on it's me – I have to tweak something!)

Next I'll un-pin everything and sew on the lace, by hand I think for the neatness and control. Next up is sewing on the ties and stitching the side/back seam. I need to try on my Victorian corset to double check my waist measurement before I can finish off the pleats & waistband but that will have to wait a few days. I strained my chest injury with all the cleaning today. It's quite painful at the moment. The thought of a corset (particularly lacing myself) does not sound appealing. *grimace*

Nov 29
All the black lace is now sewn onto the bustle skirt. I did it by hand but it ended up not taking long at all. Looks so nice - ooh! One strip of the ivory lace is halfway sewn down as well.

Dec 6

I sat down last night to be a good girl and whip up a skirt for everyday wear and got sucked in the bustle dress instead. See - this is what happens and why I have no clothes! *rolls eyes*

I got the rest of the lace and the tassel fringe sewn on, then turned my attention to the back puff. I sewed in the vertical & horizontal ties, added pleats to the side and attached it to the skirt front. I then tried it on Narcissa and played with the length of the ties to get the affect/poof I wanted. By the way I didn't cut my back panel any too short after all. As it is all I have it a sweep, not a proper train now.

This morning I danced with RCHS for our local APVA so after I got back and while I had my shift on I tried on my bustle & skirt for the first time. I love the bustle, it's so light - I imagined it would feel heavier. I probably made the overlay a little long (without shoes it brushes the floor) but I like it so it's staying as is. I'm pleased with the skirt too. The black lace looks so good!

My only concern is that to fit my waist I have to get those back panels to fit into "10 (that's 45” into 5”). So the cartridge pleating isn't working, in the pics the pleating is overlapped almost twice over. It gives a nice puff in back it's unworkable as far as a waistband goes.

I thought about taking a panel out (having one fabric width instead of two) but I think one width is not enough. While two is too much. So now I'm wondering if I should try and gather the waist or knife pleat or break down and take out a panel. Ponders... Okay bustle people, what do you think?

Dec 29
Don't faint but I have been sewing a bit this week. I pleated the back of the black & white bustle skirt and put the waistband on. I ended up liking the effect of stacked box pleats best. Never used them before but they were fun - I'll have to use them again some time!