Gallery:

May 2009
Wearing the skirt for the first time as part of my "faux steampunk" outfit, Costume-Con 27. More pics for the day can be found here.

January 2011
A complete outfit! At my Victoriana Luncheon. More pics for the day can be found here.

Dress Diary:

Nov 19 2007
When I start a project I usually have a plan, a flexible plan but still a solid idea in my head of what I want to end up with. The Black & White Bustle (TM) however, not so much. I have a vague sort of idea and I have materials and trims to use but beyond that...

My inspiration began (back when this was going to be my Fire costume) with the first two fashion plates. I still really liked those plates, particularly the Vest Basque shape for the bodice and horizontal decoration along the front of the skirt.

I've spent some time this week trying to hone my vision for this project. Going through Demode's index helped immensely (seriously Kendra if you ever take that off your web site I'll have to stop costuming!), as did the fashion plates on Festive Attyre. The bustle goodness over on the Truly Victorian Boards have been helpful as well.

All that to say I've figured out what I want in terms of the skirts and bustle. I love the lines of this wedding gown (found on e-bay) and plate (from Festive Attyre).

The upshot is I've decided I bought the wrong pattern for my bustle skirt. The more I look at TV216, the less I like it for this project. The way the back is constructed is not at all what I had in mind. This isn't helping my overall feeling of being very stupid and insecure over this whole project.

I think I could puzzle it out, using techniques and pieces from my two TV patterns (TV216, TV201) plus the aid of Hunnisett. My only question is should I make full underskirt/overskirt or seam it all together hiding the join with a false side panel?

*sigh* Or should I just ditch the Victorian thing for another year and use the faille for a robe à la française?

Nov 20
Per the suggestion of several of my costuming friends I posted my questions on the TV board. Apparently I confused a 1870s fashion plate with an 1880s wedding gown. Oops! My response:

Umm... oops! I wasn't looking at the dates when searching my files, I didn't realize the extent gown was so late. So perhaps it's not the best example of what I was looking for. What I liked was the line and proportions of the skirt/pouf/overskirt which still seems appropriate for the 1870s I want.

I'm not drawn to the aprons and swags in front so I like the idea of a " flat"decorated front, pouf behind as shown in these 1875 fashion plates:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p75/may1.html (left green)
http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p75/sep1.html (middle blue)
http://www.festiveattyre.com/victorian/p75/jul9.html

I'm really bad at translating the plates into reality though and couldn't tell if it was separate (full underskirt) or sewn together (false like TV216). I'm guessing now that either is acceptable for the 1870s? Thanks for you help and advice!

Clear as mud? Yep, thought so. :P

I didn't get too much done today as I was trying to take it easy (want to shake this illness thank you!). At first I was very taken with the idea of a separate underskirt with the thought I could use it for a later costume too. There were good reasons to do all one piece though. The factor that decided me on one piece was that I don't have enough of the black lace & trim (for the front) to go all the way around anyway, so why bother. Also having less to pack and iron at CosCol is only a good thing. :P

I tackled the back first, which I'm forging ahead on without getting another pattern. Based on the descriptions on the TV web site, the patterns I have, Hunnisett and Arnold I think I can do it myself. I decided to make the back two widths wide and 65" long. It's probably way too long but better long than short, yes?

I seamed the panels then cut the sides at an angle. My fabric is a lovely winter-white faille that came from silkfrocks (thanks again Elizabeth - you are too wonderful!). It had been sitting on a shelf for a while with one end discolored from the sun. Oxiclean got most of it out but it's still discolored on one salvage. I was seeing angles in Arnold so I went with that as a way to cut out the textile's issues. Now I'm wondering if I should have angled it more (giving less volume at the top) but I want to get it on Narcissa and play first. I can always trim it down later.

I then turned my attention to the netting (recommended to reinforce the puffs). I eyeballed how long and wide I thought it should be, seamed it down the center and pinned it to skirt. I trimmed off the access and basted it on the top and sides. I started tracing out the front skirt pieces (from TV201) but I'm ready for bed so I'll finish that in the morning.

So decent progress, if even if it doesn't look like much. All the hassle with the netting was worth it, I already love the weight and drape of that section. I'm wondering if I should do the whole panel now instead of just the top third. I'm also wondering if I should flat line the whole thing. The fabric is surprisingly sheer and it might drape better too... Or maybe that is overkill.

Nov 21

So what do you think?! I adore it!!! *giggles inside* The lace and tassels are courtesy of Mom. They were on her original Civil War outfit, when we starting re-enacting in 1989. See - waste not, want not! The lace is in surprisingly good shape, no sign of dry rotting or anything. It looks and feels brand new and is so soft and delicate. The tassels are a bit worn but for free I can deal with it. Besides they bring back memories of my childhood!

I had great fun laying out the lace. In the end I decided I liked the spacing graduated. I have no idea if it's period or not but it was more visually interesting. Once I'd figured out the design, I measured each side to make sure everything was even, pinned the lace (I'll attach it by hand later) and sewed on the side back panels. The tassels and ivory lace (which I draped on once I had it back on Narcissa) were then pinned on in prep for hand sewing.

I wasn't sure about the strip of ivory lace on the side at first but I really like it now. The ivory lace will be on the bodice more (as an overlay on the vest & collar, and at the sleeves) so I like the idea of a bit of it on the skirt. I'm thinking of adding a flounce at the bottom of the front, either of the ivory lace or self fabric but I want to finish off the hem first and see what it looks like.

So on to the back puffy panel! I do have one question though, is it better/more accurate to use knife pleats or cartridge pleating (to pleat to the waistband)? And should they be large or small pleats? The pattern just says "pleat". Not that helpful really.

Nov 22

I roughly pleated up the back & then pinned together the back poof. It's all very rough but it looks pretty good to me! I really just wanted to know I was on the right track. I pinned according to the measurements on TV216 for the side pleat and back tie placement. Looks pretty true so I'm just going to go with them, maybe lengthening the middle tie a bit. (come on it's me – I have to tweak something!)

Next I'll un-pin everything and sew on the lace, by hand for the neatness and control. Next up is sewing on the ties and stitching the side/back seam. I need to try on my Victorian corset to double check my waist measurement before I can finish off the pleats & waistband but that will have to wait a few days. I strained my chest injury with all the cleaning today. It's quite painful at the moment. The thought of a corset (particularly lacing myself) does not sound appealing. *grimace*

Nov 29
All the black lace is now sewn onto the bustle skirt. Despite doing it all by hand it ended up not taking long at all. Running stitches rock! Looks so nice - ooh! One strip of the ivory lace is halfway sewn down as well.

Dec 6

I sat down last night to be a good girl and whip up a skirt for everyday wear and got sucked in the bustle dress instead. See - this why I have no real clothes! *rolls eyes*

I got the rest of the lace and the tassel fringe sewn on, then turned my attention to the back puff. I sewed in the vertical & horizontal ties, added pleats to the side and attached it to the skirt front. I then tried it on Narcissa and played with the length of the ties to get the affect/poof I wanted. By the way I didn't cut my back panel any too short after all. As it is all I have it a sweep, not a proper train now.

This morning I danced with RCHS for our local APVA so after I got back and while I had my shift on I tried on my bustle & skirt for the first time. I love the bustle, it's so light - I imagined it would feel heavier. I probably made the overlay a little long (without shoes it brushes the floor) but I like it so it's staying as is. I'm pleased with the skirt too. The black lace looks so good!

My only concern is that to fit my waist I have to get those back panels to fit into "10 (that's 45” into 5”). So the cartridge pleating isn't working, in the pics the pleating is overlapped almost twice over. It gives a nice puff in back it's unworkable as far as a waistband goes.

I thought about taking a panel out (having one fabric width instead of two) but I think one width is not enough. While two is too much. So now I'm wondering if I should try and gather the waist or knife pleat or break down and take out a panel. Ponders... Okay bustle people, what do you think?

Dec 29
Don't faint but I have been sewing a bit this week. I pleated the back of the black & white bustle skirt and put the waistband on. I ended up liking the effect of stacked box pleats best. Never used them before but they were fun - I'll have to use them again some time!

April 29 2009
Bustle skirt done!

Poor thing has been hanging in my closet for over 2 years needing only a hem to be finished. Pathetic really. I find I'm short on outfit for CosCon so I decided to whip out this skirt, hem it and create a "faux" steampunk outfit.

May 6 2009

I wore my faux steampunk outfit on the second day of CosCon and it was great fun to wear! I paired it with a modern collared shirt, a corset top from Charlotte Russe, a feather boa and Dad's top hat (girlie-fied with feathers and netting) - instant steampunk! :>

Lessons learned: Bustles are fun! I really need a ruffled petticoat, the bustle itself is not enough. The skirt, particularly in the front looked a bit limp and lame.

Jan 2 2011
So in two weeks is Sara and Aubry's visit and my Victoriana Fete. I'm SO beyond excited about it!! Thing is I have to make SOMETHING to wear to the party. Remind me again why I picked Victoriana as the theme when I don't really have any Victoriana costumes? Oh yes to do something different and challenge myself.

So I either have to re-make the Poe bodice or make a bodice for my Black & White Bustle outfit or be insane and come up with a completely new outfit between now and then. I was going to go with the Poe, only because I know that is the era Flirty and Saucy are doing, but at the moment I'm leaning toward the bustle. I'm more confident I can whip that out between now and then and frankly the hair is much easier. We'll see.

Jan 6 2011

Don't faint - it's sewing content! Well almost... I am getting ready to start on the costume for my Victoriana party next Sunday. I've been dragging my feet about this for weeks. Bad Jenny. I'm reviving the 1870s Black & White Bustle ensemble I started in *goes to look it up* - geez 2006! That is embarrassing. Well better late than never, right?

When last this project saw the light of day I had just finished the skirt (which I've posted a pic of above to refresh the collective memory). So next step is the bodice, which will be made using Truly Victorian #405. I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to decorate with laces and trims, I'll figure that out along the way. So I just cleaned my room, read through the pattern, put on my newly finished Doré corset and took measurements. Exciting no? Next step is the mock up.

I have a question for you bustle people out there though. The directions don't mention it but should I pipe any seams? I know that is common in the 1860s, had it become unfashionable by the 1870s or was it left off the pattern for simplicity in construction. I love the look of a piped seam but I don't want to make my life more difficult for no reason. Especially since I'm trying to make this bodice in less than a week. Thoughts oh LJ Oracle?

Jan 6 2011
Thanks so much for your responses to my piping query - you guys are the best! So basically it's up to me. I like that answer!

I just finished cutting out the mock-up. Moving kinda slow today and finding myself easily distracted... silly Jenny.

Jan 8 2011

Sleevils - we hates them precious! Other than that the mock-ups are going well. The bodice is pretty much where I want it to be fit-wise and I'm hoping to get the sleeves sorted out soon. Then I can move onto cutting my fabric, if all goes well before dinner tonight!

I'm pretty impressed with this Truly Victorian pattern. It's been pretty quick and painless, I didn't have to mess with the darts at all - a miracle! Not to say it didn't need any work but to be fair some of the toileing time I've had to put in was due to my not being able to make up any pattern as is. It's a sickness.

I lengthened jacket, adding ½" to the bottom 'cause I liked it better that way. The top of the vestee needed some trimming at the top of the bust (otherwise it wanted to gap, not flattering) as well as the back at the top of the back seam. But those are pretty standard adjustments for me so no big. I really had to mess with the shoulder seam though. It was super curved which on my wide-ish shoulder caused puckering. Not cute.

I also had some gapping issues from the bust to the shoulder but a quick dart (that I later drafted into the pattern piece) fixed that. The back waist was a bit fiddly too, requiring me to add to the hip/skirt to get everything to lay nicely. Silly natural bumroll.

The sleeves have been a different story of course. Sleevils - ah!

Jan 8 2011

Well I could probably continue to make the fit and sleeves better but frankly I'm tired of toileing so I'm declaring it GOOD ENOUGH. So there.

At least I can live with the sleeves now, took long enough! The sleeves are a shaped two-piece (similar to a 1780-90s sleeve). I found the shaping too severe (it looked fine with my arms bent but with them straight it was very silly, perhaps historically correct but very annoying) so I shifted the angle by ¾".

Alot of the sleeve hassle has come from me changing the armhole. The original pattern has quite a drop shoulder, something I found uncomfortable and unflattering. I found lots of extant examples that weren't so dropped so I decided to raise it. Which totally changed the armhole and the shape of the sleeve cap of course. I also took some of the fullness out of the cap not being a puffed sleeve girl.

The cuffs were my biggest issue with the pattern. My changing the angle of the sleeve might have been the issue but they didn't on any level work. In the end I had to completely re draft them. Oh well.

I guess I have to decide which fabric to use now... the hard part!

• Option 1: Matching cream fabric with contrasting black piping and black lace accents.
• Option 2: The "vestee" out of matching cream fabric with black glass buttons - the rest out of black silk taffeta, creating a jacket-over-dress-effect like the archery dress from Daniel Deronda.

Both options would be lovely so I'm having a hard time deciding. I could always make both but then which one for the party? I think some dinner is in order and then I will decide...

Jan 12 2011

Despite a lack of blogging I have made progress with my black & white bustle bodice. I decided to go with the black jacket/white vestee option. I love working with silk taffeta, I really do! I've had a ridiculously fun time making button holes too, for the first time in 2 years. Funny I used to be so afraid of them. It helps that I'm using the most gorgeous buttons ever, some vintage glass ones from Loren's de-stash.

At the moment I'm struggling with the lining (bag lining SUCKS!!!!) which has slowed me down to a slow crawl. I'm so glad I decided not to do piping now! I really need to finish sewing today though since the next few days need to be filled with cleaning, shopping, baking and other party/guest prep.

I was quietly confident about finishing up today but with the lining I'm not so sure. Dude there has got to be a better way to do this!

Bag lining - we hates it Precious!!

Jan 12 2011
The bag lining has been conquered - whew! I ironed and steamed it into submission and am reasonably happy with the results. Dude it sucked getting there though!

On to sleeves and buttons...

Jan 13 2011
The b&w bustle is almost done, it just needs some lace at the sleeve cuffs and a little futzing with the skirt bustle. I probably should have stayed up late last night finishing it up since it's so little but I was super tired and went to bed early instead.

So my bodice is going un-trimmed - everything I tried on it I hated. It doesn't look quite "right" to me plain but I figure it's better to be slightly neo-Victorian than ugly and cheap-looking right? Have I been looking at Harper's Bazzar too much, were gowns of he 1870s always trimmed out the whazoo or is simple more historically correct than I think?

Jan 15 2011

I couldn't sleep last night thanks to an upset tummy so I added the lace to the sleeve cuffs. I pleated the lace until it fit, no math involved it was great. I then pinned the pleats down on both sides, starched and steamed the pleats in before attaching the lace to the sleeve. I really like the effect. It's frilly but still structured.

Jan 18 2011

My Victoriana Fete was a great success and my outfit came out wonderfully, as did my hair (I watched a lot of Daniel Deronda last week to figure out the hair!) and I felt very much the pretty, pretty princess. I totally need more bustle in my life! For some reason all the pics of just me have the neighbors odious shed in the background (blah) so I'll need to wear it again and take better pics. Oh darn! :>

Jan 27 2011

I was surfing about the internet tonight and stumbled on a bustle dress remarkably similar to my Black & White Bustle Dress.

I love it when I find documentation for an outfit after I finish it. Hee. Needless to say having seen this I'm feeling much better about my decision not to trim the bodice. I'm also totally in love with those cuffs- yummy!