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Summer 2006

This gown went through several metimorphisis before it was finished. Originally it was meant to be the under dress to the Golden Bee Ensemble. It was put on hold several times, the design, pattern, fabric, embroidery and color all changed at least twice. I feared it's fate would be to languish in a forgotten bin until I went through a mad de-cluttering fit and threw it out.

Happily that was not the case and it's proof that miracles happen that this gown made it into wearable condition in the end. To avoid confusion and possible madness you will find an edited version of the drama that was the cursed Federalist gown below. Trust me it's for your own good!

January 2006

This gown will be made of silk twill from Dharma Trading Co, in it's natural color, and embroidered with gold cotton floss. Originally I was going to use silk floss and the Dharma 5mm habotai silk but after testing I decided against the silk floss from purely a financial standpoint (besides the fact that it's hard to get locally) and against the 5mm Habotai because it didn't hold up well. I am not going to invest 80 hours in embroidering in a gown that will prick and snag before I've even finished with it.

I really wanted sheer silk but the three factors that mattered to me the most was having silk, being able to afford the silk and doing the embroidery. The silk twill won't be sheer but it will be everything else I want so I am content. Besides I love the color of Dharma's natural silk, whatever the weight.

I'm using patterns from Jean Hunnistt, namely the 1800 bodice and straight sleeve. This gown is a re-visit of the Greensleeves gown I made a few years ago. There were several things I wasn't happy with about that project - mostly the fit, the fact I attached sleeves incorrectly and that I ran out of time to do the embroidery I had originally planned. With a few years experience and research under my belt I'm confident I can do a much better job this time around.

the embroidery

The embroidery design is based on one in Costumes of the Greeks and Romans. I wanted something neo-classical and this fits the bill perfectly. The embroidery will run down the front, around the hem and around the sleeve bands.

I know I should really be doing this white-on-white but I don't want to so I'm not. So there. :P I have my heart set on gold, it's so regal. I've been very inspired by the red gown in Williamsburg's collection as well as David's painting of the Coronation of Empress Josephine.

To make sure my design is proportional but not skimpy, I traced the design onto a length of muslin with a gold marker. After a few tries and enlargements I found a size I was happy. If the one dimensional version looks this good I can't wait to see the embroidered version! *grin*

Later I tested the design in stitching. I decided to use a stem stitch for the outline, chain stitches for the inside and buttonhole stitches for the little center ditties. They are simple stitches but the fancy ones I tried didn't look as nice. I simplified the design a bit too, taking out some of the flourishes. Again simplicity worked better.

Feb 4
I'm just waiting for my silk to come in from Dharma to start on this. I'll work on the embroidery right away as I can do the front of the skirt without any frock toiles or patterning. All I need is an Empire waist-to-floor measurement. Neat, huh?

Oh yes I should probably decide the shade of gold embroidery floss too. I went to Jo-Ann's and bought a whole bunch of different shades. I'll corner Bridget while she is home this weekend to help me pick one. She is very helpful with that sort of thing.

Feb 6
May I just say I love Dharma! I ordered my silk twill late Thursday night and it arrived this morning. So cool!

Feb 12
I got to work on my Bee dress embroidery today, or tried anyway. I got all set to trace the design on the new silk when I discovered that my finial pattern was not in its proper file. Hopefully I have a copy somewhere on my computer because I can't find the printed one anywhere. *sigh*

Mar 12
*grinds teeth*

So I finally found the pattern in my computer files, get around to tracing the pattern and begin work on the embroidery. I finish one motif when I realize why this second attempt looks more delicate than the first test (with the silk thread I rejected). It's the wrong size.

Yep. I must have used an older version of the design when I traced it on, which is about 20% smaller. I like the larger version much better of course *rolls eyes* so I must start over. Again.

I really do think this costume is cursed or something. I have never had so many false starts and significant setbacks on a costume I haven't even toiled yet! I must admit I'm thinking quite seriously about forgetting the whole embroidery idea. I'm not sure I can take much more.

Mar 14

Well I've decided I want give the embroidery thing another try. I know in the end I won't be satisfied with another plain frock.

What to do about the sizing issue is another question though. Honestly I like the larger version better but I'm not sure I have the will power to start from scratch once again. After going through the heartache of ripping out all that work I'm not sure I will sit down and start again in a timely manner (which I must do if I have a hope of finishing it in time). Then again what if I get it all done in the smaller version and hate it? I really can't figure myself out on this one.

You know, this gown is turning out to be quite a drag. Why do I do these things to myself?

Mar 24

First off I want to thank you so much for all your suggestions and encouragement on the whole embroidery sizing issue - you guys are the best! After walking away from it for a few days I decided to just bite the bullet and start over with the larger size. It was painful to do but I'm happy now.

While I was at it I remarked my tracing of the design, cleaning it up further and creating a tidy master pattern (I made sure to file it properly this time!). I had it finished in time to take to my Mary Kay conference last weekend so I got to work on it there.

I've been able to work on it a bit more this week and I've found a rhythm for it. I'm really enjoying myself (embroidery is really like crack sometimes!) but I need to stop soon and switch to some of my other projects.

I have to admit that I'm a little disappointed the color of the thread turned out so light on the gown. It's a bit more subtle than I had envisioned. Oh well. With the embroidery, it's really the overall effect that will make it work anyway.

Mar 27
I am really whaling on the embroidery. Its going faster than I originally feared although still slow enough to make me want to rethink doing that WHOLE hem. We'll see...

Apr 27
I worked on my embroidery a bit tonight. It's coming along okay. I guess. I mean everyone looks at it and gushes but my perfectionism is rearing it's ugly head once again. I can't get my stitches to come out evenly or the design to be consistent for that matter. Part of that is the nature of the silk I'm using (so slippery) but the lack of control and consistency is bugging me. The chain stitched scrolls are turning out to be very time consuming as well - I should have used a different stitch. I may change it when I get to the hem.

I keep telling myself that the over-all effect is what matters and no one will ever look that closely or judge as harshly as I do but I must admit it's combining to make the project a bit of a drag.

Apr 29

The embroidered dress so far. Actually I've did a bit more since taking that pic. So I'm about 19" along, out of about 45". I really need to toile my dress one of these days so I know the exact length. Details, details!! :>

May 28

Despite a week of debilitating migraines and general sinus ickiness I'm making progress on the dress. Today I've been feeling particularly fuzzy and blah, mostly worn out from all the headachiness, but in true WWKD I prevailed long enough to get it on a roll.

I think I've worked out all the issues with my 1804 stays. I still need to redo the eyelets on the straps and re-bind the whole thing but since it was in wearable condition I laced up and took all the measurements for the dress and started draping that pattern. I've had enough of the stays for now. :P

I decided to use the same patterns from Hunnisett that I used on the Greensleeves dress. With my tight deadline I thought using something I'm at least familiar with (as opposed to a bib-front or something like that) would be good. Besides I wasn't completely happy with the GS (Greensleeves) so this is my chance to try again and perfect it.

While I'm using the same patterns, I decided to start from scratch with them. I'm so much more experienced at pattern making and the period now. It's amazing how differently I view the Regency so than I did 3 years ago.

So I pulled out my original sized-up version from the Hunnisett book and cut a new toile. I'm using some old silk essence to better simulate the silk I'll be using. As I recall from the GS, the finial product came out very different than the muslin toile. I don't want any unpleasant surprises. Also I want to play with the fullness of the gathers, getting the right look with a minimal amount of fabric. I can't do that if the gathers behave totally different because of fabric.

So I got as far as cutting it out and basting it all together. I did alter the pattern a bit before I cut, taking out a full 2” from the underarm area. I want the fullness concentrated in the front and back this time. Looking at the toile on Narcissa I think I'm going to take a bit more out. I definitely need to shorten it and the straps need some serious adjustments. I need to try it on before I can do anymore though and I don't feel like it at the moment. I think I shall make it an early night instead...

May 29

First fitting for the dress. Not terribly exciting but pics none the less. :>

Overall it needs to be shortened and some of the fullness (particularly at the side) needs to be taken out. I'll also be shaping the shoulder strap a bit more. I want a drawstring in the neck and waist so some of those sharp angles need to be softened or that drawstring will never work.

May 29 - later that day

Second toile for the dress. Still not terribly exciting but progress. I seem to be moving at a snails pace but I think I'm getting it. It probably doesn't look all that different but it is a whole new toile. I'm also working out how exactly I'm going to construct the thing... this toile was definitely progress on that issue!

The length looks good I think. I'll have to put a toile skirt on it to know for sure. The neckline looks good, just need to shape the shoulder straps a bit more. Looks like I took too much fullness out so I'll be putting a tad back in the front and sides. The back/side seam needs to be moved over an 1”.

The big question in my mind is should I replace the fullness at the center back or just make it fitted. It's at an annoying in between at the moment. I need to look through my reference books/images again but as much as I love the fitted I'm leaning towards the full. The fitted (as I recall) is a later thing and I'm going early (1799-1804) for this dress.

It occurred to me this morning that my pattern (and vision) for this costume is a variation on a chemise a la reine bodice. At least that is the way I'm approaching the construction for good or ill. What is it that Jean Hunnisett says in her book intro; look to the construction immediately before and close your mind to later innovations in cut and construction. Very paraphrased but you get the idea…

Jun 10

I'm beginning to think this dress may be the death of me! Ack - I keep thinking I'm getting close but I seem to be just one toile away from what I want. Just a bit frustrating. But I'm determined to get it right or die in the attempt.

My - aren't I dramatic tonight! :>

I was trolling on the web the other night and stumbled upon this cool site for high quality Jane Austen film screen captures. SO KEWL! I've had way too much fun going through the S&S ones particularly, noticing seams and textile details I'd never noticed before.

Interestingly enough most of Eleanor and Marianne's gowns are the same style, front fastening with a drawstring neck and “bib front” type skirt. Some of the skirts appear to tie while others button at the waist. Above is a great shot of one of Marianne's frocks. Because it's wet you can see exactly how it's fastened. :> (All the captures above are from Longbourn. I've made them smaller to save space on my site, go to L for the large file versions.)

I thought about doing the same with my gown but in the end decided against it. I don't need complicated skirt fastenings at this point... maybe next time. I did rediscover my love for the basic line of the film's frocks though. *sigh* I looked through my books to find inspiration. Kyoto won out as usual and so my inspirations for my dress are the purple & yellow frocks from Kyoto and Eleanor's white dress.

With that in mind I decided to draft the shoulder strap into the bodice. It's hard to tell but I'm pretty sure that is how the two Kyoto gowns are done. It's definitely the way E's white gown was cut. It makes the neckline a bit more rounded but it should also make a drawstring along the entire neckline (my plan) easier.

Other changes to the toile were adding a hint more fullness to the front, adding quite a bit of fullness to the back and moving the back/side seam 1” towards the center back. I just tried on that toile (no pics - sorry!) and it looks pretty good. The side/back seam could come back a bit more. The sides now have way too much fullness to them. I think I need to concentrate the fullness in the center back and front more and have less on the sides. I think I need to shape the side/back seam to more of a concave shape as well. It sticks out in an annoying way right now. I seem too recall the Chancey pattern being concave with better results. I'll put that out and have a look at it.

*trots off to work on let's see... toile # 4* *sigh*

Jun 10 - later that day

Okay I think I finally have it! Just one more toile... famous last words I know! :> I'm actually on toile #5. Number 4 was close to disaster so I didn't bother to stop and do an entry for it. It got me to #5 though so...

I ended up taking too much fullness out of the side area - it was way too tight. I also added more of a curve to the side seam, using the S&S Regency pattern as my guide. The seam looks much better but using the S&S pattern totally messed up my armhole so that needed a lot of work. I'm going for the period small back, sleeve-in-the-back, almost-18th-century-thing but the S&S is designed as a modern round hole so yeah... needs some work.

Toile #5 corrected the fullness issue. I think just a hint more in the back and I'm done. I also pinned up a section of the shoulder strap area. That was a eureka moment when I tried it on. It instantly got rid of the pulling under the arm, put the gathers in the right place, lined up the shoulder strap with the stays line in back and pulled the hole arm/side into the correct position. Isn't it great when so many issues are solved with one little adjustment? *hugs pins* I'll just draft that little bit out of my next toile.

The armholes still need a lot of work but that's to be expected as I didn't mess too much with them from toile #4. I've marked them this time though and will cut them down for the next toile. I think I'm finally ready to start toileing the sleeves! So I'm at a good stopping point. I'll make the changes to my master pattern, cut the next one and call it a night. Or maybe I'll do a bit of embroidery instead and worry about toiles tomorrow. Only about 10” to go and I'm done with the embroidery! I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel on this project!

edit:
Gee, you sure can tell I'm tired in the pics. I look a little punchy in the first one. Just two I promise! *wink to B, C & L*

Jun 11
The news from toile #6 is that I hate this gown and am starting to wonder why I bother with this costuming thing. *sigh*

Not going well at all. To look at it this is such a simple style - why can't I get it right?!! Either it's deceptively simple or I'm a dunce. At the moment I'm going with the former though starting to lean toward the latter.

You know this gown is being a complete butt - I'm really starting to freak about the fact that I still have the overdress to toile, cut, construct & finish. That looks like the simpler project, believe it or not. I need to figure something out here or I will never be done in time!

*sigh* Why do I do these things to myself!

Jun 16
I've been looking through patterns and doing more research, trying to figure this bugger out but to no avail. I think I need to walk away from it for a little while, I'm feeling burned out at the very thought of Federalist. *sigh*

Jun 27
I got my Lacis order today. I broke out the tambour hoop, stuck my dress embroidery on it and have been happily embroidering all evening. I was zooming along so well that I forgot myself and chatted with on the phone with a friend for far too long. Good thing Dad recently up -ed my cell phone minutes! :P

Oh my gosh - why did I wait so long for a hoop like this!! I can see many blissful hours of embroidery in my future. The dress is going much faster now - if only I'd gotten this sooner! Oh well. I don't know why I'm always amazed when things work better & more efficiently with the correct equipment, but I am. *silly Jenny*

July 2
I've got furniture stain on my embroidered panel. Yep, spots of period correct furniture stain. I'm surprisingly calm about it. If I get it out great and if not I will have the pleasure of burning this wretched, cursed dress! *ahem*

July 4
I LOVE Shout wipes. The guy who invested them should be sainted or something. It took me a couple of tries and lot of scrubbing and rinsing but the stain is no longer noticeable! I was luck in that the stain was a yellowish color and the silk cream colored. The stain is technically still there but not noticeable unless you are looking for it. Huzzah!

Jul 24
Ack! 10 days before I leave for CC - I'm not panicking!!!!! *ahem*

Not much done on the sewing front. Good stuff though. I finally came to the realization that I needed to stop being anal about this 1800 dress. I started to get all whigged out about “oh my gosh I'm gong to meet all these amazing costumers, I have to put my best foot forward and do everything ‘right'!”. *sigh* Pride can be such an ugly thing. God has been gracious to me though and with a little slapping upside the head last week brought me to a point where I can say, you know what? This will be my best foot. It's the best I can do right now and that is okay. Not that I don't care what you guys think but I have to do this costuming thing for ME, not based on what others will say or do.

*sigh* Thought I'd learned that lesson a few years ago, guess I needed a refresher. :> So anyway, not much sewing but my attitude is much improved. I feel much lighter in heart too and totally ready to party, no matter how close to my original vision the dress ends up looking like or not.

All that to say I ditched my attempts to make the gown I thought I wanted and am going to copy the old Greensleeves dress as is instead. It's not the “accurate & inventive” interpretation on the Regency that I was going for but the look is right and it will be quite pretty.

I cut out the toile from the old Greensleeves pattern and fitted the lining. A few tweaks and it looked good. I also decided on the height of the bodice, the one thing I really hated about Greenie was that the bodice was too long.

Jul 25

Definitely have a head cold *blah* but I managed to take a nap, frequent rests and get the dress toiled. The bodice was fairly painless, just time consuming with all the gathering.

The sleeves were a royal pain but as you all know, sleeves are just evil anyway! I tried the straight sleeve in Hunnisett at first but after messing with it for a while gave up and tried using an adapted version of my 18th century sleeve. Dang that pattern is useful!

So the toile is all ready to go (sorry no pics of the finished version, blame the meds for my forgetfulness). I really should work on the overdress toile tonight but I feel too crappy. If I can get the master pattern all traced out before bed I'll be doing really well…

Jul 28
Excuse, again, my lack of posting. The internet went down again all day yesterday, this time some issue with our modem. It has not been my week can you tell!

I'm still sick. This cold wants to hang on for a while it looks like, probably because I'm pushing a bit sewing. I'm taking lots of breaks (so behind!) but still sneezing, tired and blowing my nose every 5 minutes. Life can be so unfair!

The toiles are all done and the dress is the only thing on my list that I'm worried about at this point. It's silk and fiddly so I'll have to go slow, plus I shorted myself on the embroidery so I have to do some more of that. I'll get it in wearable condition but it may be safety pinned together or something.

Jul 29
Today has gone… well unexpectedly. I started cutting out the embroidered dress this morning but that quickly became a discouraging thing when I realized I was a full six inches short on the embroidery. That would take me a good 8 hours to do (oh why did I do that stitch!!). I don't have 8 hours to spare with everything else I have to do before I leave! *moans*

So I took a break and went to Hancocks, innocently enough, for some twill tape. I was in line to check out when B and I starting looking through a fabric display nearby. Then I saw it… the perfect fabric for a Regency ball gown. In fact the perfect fabric to go with my Bee Robe. As Bridget put it when we told the story to Mom, something *clicked*.

The grand result was I bought the fabric and have spent the last hour cutting it out to wear at CC instead of the embroidered silk.

I will finish the embroidered silk gown (I need it for a RCHS event in Sep) but this gives me a chance to 1) finish the 6” on the front and 2) actually do the other embroidery on the sleeves and neckline that I'd given up on because of the CC deadline. I'll be much better pleased with the result I'm sure and will be a lot less stressed come CC.

Less stress is always a good thing.

Sep 1
Umm... well the dress I was going to wear on Saturday (Greensleeves) has bitten the dust so I decided to make the Embroidered Federal dress for the tea on the 16th after all. I mean it's all cut out already and if the embroidery isn't finished no one at RCHS will notice, right? I love it when I don't care about these things, it makes life so much easier!

Sep 4
I've been working steadily on the dress this weekend. Went over to Tina's house and while we chatted and Sharon worked on her gown I finished pinning down the bodice and sleeves. This afternoon I tried it on to double check everything.

Somehow this dress can out a little big, everywhere. Like my seam allowances were off or something (which they were not). It's the exact same pattern as the Bee Dress and yet this one is too big? This dress is so cursed!

The sleeves are off a bit as well but I decided not enough to re-pin them. Can you tell I just don't really care? So sad. I just want to get it done so I don't have the deal with it anymore. Everyone will say it's fabulous but I just want it to be done and not go to the tea naked. Then I can move on to a project I actually like and don't feel like I'm going crazy over. Wretched thing! I'm just holding my breath to see what else happens with it. Watch me spill grape juice on it or something.

So the bodice and sleeves are all ready to go. I just need to hem the sleeves and zig-zag the bottom edge of the bodice. I need to finish the top embroidery before I can sew up the skirts...

Sep 8
Still working on the embroidery but it's almost done. At least the top section that I have to get done before I can put the skirts together.

Sep 13
It's done!!! All of the embroidery on my Federalist gown is finally finished!! *happy butt wiggle* I am so ready for this project to be over! Now I just need to finish putting the dress together for Saturday.

Sep 17

Thanks to some late hours and a few cheats I managed to finish my Federalist gown plus B's apron in time for the tea yesterday. The gown ended up too big just about everywhere but really what can one expect from a cursed project? :P It did turn out to be quite pretty and very fun to wear. I definitely need more pure silk gowns in my future!

The rest of the pics can be found here.