Gallery:

January 2006
The finished Pirate! Not exactly what we had orginially envisioned but it's time to lay the cursed thing to rest!!

Oct 2005
Presenting Bridget the Middling Pirate!

Dress Diary

June 2005

Above is my evitable pathetic concept sketch. It's not great I know but I hope it gives you an idea of what we are going for. Bridget the Pirate, is a successful, classy pirate who is thoroughly enjoying all the luxury and 'joie de vivre' that ill-gotten gains can bring during the "Golden Age of Piracy". This is a glorious bit of fantasy so we are pulling elements from all over, but primarily circa 1700-1720 or so

Inspiration

The main inspiration for not only the outfit but of the whole idea was really Captain Hook. As much as we love Pirates of the Caribbean, it was not what inspired B to turn to piracy. Jason Issacs' Hook (*swoon*) has many drool worthy outfits but his lovely navy blue ensemble was the one that really struck B's fancy. Particularly the coat and it's decoration

The 1690s ladies riding habit was also an early inspiration, with it's lovely lines, feminine grace and fun accessories. We were originally going to create an embroidered waistcoat, with stays underneath. Then we were inspired by this gorgeous set of stays from the Met. Why not save a little time and effort and make the stays the decorative piece instead? :>

Fabrics & Patterns

The fabrics... my favorite part. The midnight blue jacquard and blood red velvet are from my personal stash. True love, that's all I have to say! Honestly I can't think of better uses for them so I was happy to donate them to the cause. This whole outfit is about love anyway... the only reason I make anything for B is because I love her very much. *hugs to Bridget*

The outfit will consist of:

• shift - black silk - Kanniks Korner pattern, with long sleeves
• petticoat - red cotton - old petticoat of mine, just needs a new waistband
• skirt - black velveteen - standard petticoat, maybe with a train
• stays - red velvet with black silk stomacher - Corsets & Crinolines pg 39 - stomacher will be embroidered
• justacorps (coat) - midnight blue jacquard - Leloir patterns - the coat will be trimmed in pewter buttons, cultured pearls, small sequins, hematite beads, seed beads, silver threads


• black tricorn - trimmed with silver and long ostrich feathers
• sword - B's birthday present
• walking stick (for non-sword wearing occasions)

Ahh, makes me tired just thinking about it! :> This is actually a shorter, simplier outfit than we originally planned. We have managed to simplify the project into something both B and I are confident and happy about. I have a few reservations about some of the elements (how they will look on B, how the heck I will pull them off!) but the fun part of these projects is working out the problems, right? :P

B and I have divided the work load pretty evenly as well. I am in charge of all the garment patterning, construction and finishing while B is in charge of all the embellishment and accessories. This outfit needs to be finished by mid October, for the Ren Faire, so we should have plenty of time. I do need to get cracking on the toiles though so B can finalize the sizing of the embellishments. She needs to finish the handwork before the next semester begins.

Jun 27
Oh yes I whipped up B's pirate chemise toile today. I meant to get started on the stays toile tonight but got sucked into this blue eyed monster instead. Well I got my site updated anyway.

B isn't working for a couple days so I should be able to fit this tomorrow. The toile went better than I feared. I have a phobia when it comes to shifts, silly I know but there it is. I'm using the Kannik's Korner Regency shift pattern, so it was also a bit of a test for my own shift as well... if I ever get around to making that. :P I got the gussets to go in just fine with regular seams so next time I'll try doing it with the felled seams.

Jun 29
I managed snag B yesterday and fit that shift toile. It looked pretty good. I need to take some fullness out of the front but the back and sleeves looked pretty good.

This shift will have long sleeves (B must have long ruffles peeking out of the jacket cuff after all :>) so I marked the length on those and got a measurement for how long the ruffle needs to be. I should probably trace out a corrected master pattern for this. It would make the next step of laying out the pieces on a bolt of fabric to calculate how much silk I'll need easier. I should also do it while the corrections are fresh; it will be sometime before I actually get around to making it up. :>

We are still on the lookout for some pretty black lace for the ruffle. Unfortunately we have a good idea of what we want - something elegant and fine, no cabbage roses and preferably with points not scallops at the edge - you know something piratey. *wink* Why is it pretty, imaginative lace is so hard to find. The fabric stores around here have the most boring lace!

Jul 14
The order for Dharma silk for the pirate should be on it's way tomorrow. Finally, the ball is rolling on a few of my projects! The pirate is starting to shapel. I have some notes and pics to post on that progress but I'll wait and do that in the morning.

Jul 15

B has finally figured out what she wants to do on the stomacher of the stays. She was originally going to embroider the whole thing (we went through lots of designs for that idea!) but when we found this embroidered organza at Jo-Anns she fell in love. I think she really fell in love with idea of less work as much as the fabric. *smile* So this organza will be embellished with silver thread and colored crystal beads.

And yes we have lace! I found it at Jo-Anns of all places (will wonders never cease), which was cool as we got to use a coupon on it. This will be the inner cuff of the chemise. I think B is going to add some black crystals or rhinestones to it as well. We saw that done on one of the costumes from Stage Beauty at FIDM. It was subtle but rather elegant.

Next step will be to mock up the stays. I need to resize and print the pattern out again. The last one I did came out way too long. Not sure how I managed to be that off... :>

Jul 20

B and I made the trek to the bead shop yesterday and finished getting the supplies for the pirate costume. Well we will probably have to get some more silver thread and an oddment or two but this should be it for the main stuff.

Bridget's concept for the stomacher has always been to do something colorful and fun. She had originally wanted to create a jeweled dagger motif in thread and beads but then she fell in love with that embroidered organdy. She still wanted color and those gorgeous swarovski crystal beads at the shop though.

We were originally going to put black under the organdy but once we looked at it, it was too dark. The embroidery didn't show up at all, which seemed silly. So we went through the scrap bin and found this bright, almost obnoxious red taffeta. It's just cheap costume taffeta from Jo-Ann's - nothing special. Once we put two layers of black illusion tulle and the organdy on top of it however, it blended well with the red velvet while still showing the embroidery.

Above are pics of the elements apart and then layered together. B is really happy with her bead choices and I have to say I like them too. They really to pop together and will add something very special to the whole ensemble I think. The greens will be used to accentuate the leaves of the design and the colors will accent the flowers. Any leftovers will be used somewhere else on the corset or possibly on the shift.

Oh yes she also got some grey iridescent swarovski crystal beads to embellish the lace cuffs. Have you ever noticed that B really likes sparkle in her costumes? :>

Aug 23
I sewed together and fitted the pirate stays toile. The one that has been cut out for 3 weeks? Yeah.

I didn't expect it to fit well, which was good because it totally didn't fit at all. Well the stomacher part was pretty good. I was going for the right length and planned to enlarge it from the fitting but it proved to be short as well. I've scribbled measurements all over the toile so I'm ready for the next try at it. :> As long as it doesn't take me 3 weeks to get there we should be okay. :>

Sep 5
I cut out the second toile for the pirate stays and fit that to B. It's too big here, a bit snug there but I'm definitely on the right track. I forgot to take pics, so net toile, okay? *sigh* I love the early 18th century stays... the lines are so pretty!

Sep 5
B's fitting went well. The corset is pretty squared away now. I just have a few things to clean up when I make the master pattern. I have pics but I can't find my camera cable so it will have to wait until later.

I think I'm going to cut out the lining (cotton twill) as my next toile. Most of the tweaks should be trimming is here and there to ensure it's nice and snug. B is in a losing weight mode so I have to make sure this will still fit in January. It will be helpful to see what the shape is like with some boning...

Oh shoot I forgot about the sleeves. I didn't really work on them today... and B is going back to school tomorrow. Drat! Well I guess I should do one more toile to fit this weekend then before I start work on the lining stays then. *mreh*

Sep 30
didn't get too far last night, only cut out what should be the final toile for the pirate stays. It took so long because I took the time to figure out the boning pattern, drawing it straight on my toile. I'm using cable ties so I'm only half boning the stays. Boning patterns are so boring!

Here are some pics of the last toile fitting. Looks pretty good, the only thing to tweak is really the underarm and sleeve areas. The front stomacher is good to go. I need to cut out the fashion fabric so B can start embellishing it!

Oct 1

I'm on a roll - whoo hoo! I finished up marking the toile for the stays then worked on getting the stay stomacher ready for embellishment. The finished result is a basted combination of cheap red taffeta, one layer of black illusion tulle and the embroidered organdy. Looks good to me and very nice with the red velvet indeed. I should really zig-zag or Fray-check the edges of the taffeta before I give it to Bridget but we will see if that actually happens. It will probably fray like mad no matter what I do.

I next turned my attention to the pirate coat toile. I'm using the Simplicity Jack Sparrow pattern (I'm feeling too lazy to look up the number - sorry!). Holy cow that thing takes a lot of fabric! I'm interested to see how it makes up.

I did determine one thing - there is NO way I can use that navy blue jacquard. I *might* be able to squeeze it in if the coat was sleeveless but even then it would be a stretch. A sleeveless pirate coat isn't an option so plan "B" is to take my precious 40% off coupon and get some black cotton velvet from Jo-Anns instead. I think it may be for the best after all as now the skirt and coat will now match. Quite spiffy looking really. :>

Oct 11

We have a stays pattern - huzzah! I whipped up and fitted the finial stays toile this weekend. Looks pretty good. I just tweaked a few things, mostly making it all even. The gap in the back doesn't anticipate much weight loss, a dangerous thing with B right now but I'm not going to mess with it. I don't have the time to fiddle with it and I'm afraid cutting it down will adversely affect the fit. So I'm going happily along my way and will alter it if necessary in December. I'm all about making stays easy to alter - I'm so past my garments having to look perfect and finished on the inside! :>

So I have to work on this today and tomorrow so I can take it with me on my trip. If I don't get it to a point where I can work on the 4000 hand bound eyelets the stupid thing requires on my trip it's just not going to be done for the faire. I'd love to work on the binding this weekend too but I don't see it happening. So that means next week I have to finish the stays, make the shift, skirt and possibly the coat. If someone doesn't put me in a straight jacket first that is...

Oct 12
I worked a bit on the stays yesterday... not as much as I wanted or really needed to of course. I got the finial master pattern traced into interfacing (including the boning pattern) and the first layer of twill cut-out. I began transferring the boning pattern onto the twill but had to go to bed before I could finish.

I'm throwing aside everything else on my to-do list and devoting today to the stays. I'll have to stop to go to church tonight (I'm singing and taking a promised costume loan to a friend) so I'll pack for my trip when I get back.

Oct 13
Okay I give up. It's 12:30am, I haven't packed a thing for the trip and the stays are no where near where they need to be. Did I mention I have to leave the house at 7 this am?

In my figuring that I could really do this I forgot two important factors. The first was how much time it takes to figure out and transfer all those wretched boning patterns. Forever!

The second is that I am dealing with velvet. Now I'm remembering why I felt such immense satisfaction when I finished my Rohan gown. I'm having to baste AND pin like crazy every stinking seam. Even then it's still shifting slightly in addition to taking forever. And I can't find the needle board. I have never perfected the technique of ironing velvet without one and I can't wake Mom up to help me look for it. *sigh*

I could sit down and cry. Quitting now means there is NO way I can finish B's pirate for the Ren Faire. I was living in a fantasy world to think I could get it done in time but reality has finally struck. I feel HORRIBLE about it - I'm so sorry Dearest!

*bigger sigh* This is not the way I intended things to happen. Life has just not been cooperating lately. I think it's time to break out my "for the trip chocolate". Maybe nibbling will help the guilt while I pack.

Oct 23

We made it to the Faire, despite it all!! But to begin, Bridget's plan "B"... We decided to make "Bridget the Middling Sort Pirate" which means on Twelfth Night she will be "Bridget the Successful Pirate". I guess some plundering and looting must be on her calendar between now and then. *grin* My contribution was a ruffley pirate shirt made of black silk.

I ended up using two different patterns for it. Simplicity 8613 was really what I wanted - I particularly loved the way the ruffle was done - but the pattern is now out of print and I didn't have the right size. Rather than trying to alter the pattern I used Butterick 4486 as my base, adding the Simplicity center front seam and ruffle. In the end I redesigned the sleeves as well, adding some ribbon and creating a drawstring closure to avoid more handwork. The front ruffle was actually cut in a spiral, very cool. I'll have to use that again someday!

I also ended up making the shirt in 2 days, most of the work being done between 4pm and 4am the day before. Or night of if you want to be technical. I did have some hysterics when things weren't going well around 1am but will some deep breaths, prayer, determination, petting Mocha (the cat who kept me company all night) and B's assistance I finished it in time for a nice nap before the Faire. *whew* B added some scarves, the eye patch, lots of eclectic jewelry, just about every ring she owns and voila - a middling pirate! :>

Nov 27
I worked on the pirate stays a bit last night. I have to pin and baste all the seams before I can even think about machine-stitching the panels together (wretched napped fabric) so that is what I worked on. So my project today is to finish up that handwork at the very least. I'm not sure I will get to the machining (that would require cleaning off my desk which I'm not sure I'm up to) but I'm going to try.

Dec 28
I hate velvet. I really do.

I was working on the pirate stays today and as I pressed the last seam I managed to completely crush one panel. So I need to re-cut (and re-baste) that panel. This velvet has been so fussy, I'll be so glad to see the end of it. That will teach me to buy cheap acetate velvet from Wal-Mart, that's for sure!!

I'm not up to cutting anything out tonight so I think I'll just move on to the endless eyelets for the evening. That should keep me busy for a while! :>

Dec 28

Two eyelets down 14,002 to go! *grin* Actually it's 26 to go, plus whatever I decide to do in front. True love either way!

B & I had a nice little sewing session this evening, I working on stays basting & eyelets and she starting on the stomacher embellishment. If you think it looks pretty now, imagine all those sparkles in candlelight. *oooh*

Dec 29

The obligatory progress pics of the day. We weren't able to work on the costume much today (household things, errands and such got in the way) but B and I had another productive evening sewing session. B got most of the stomacher embellishment done and I worked a more eyelets. I know - we need to pick up the pace! :P

Jan 2
I got a few more eyelets done on New Years and last night so I've finished one panel (including the shoulder strap) and have 4 done on the second.

Real life continues to get in the way and because I have so much handwork to do on these stays they are moving at a snails pace. Not good. I'm not even making lists this week because they might discourage me. I'm simply living in a parallel universe where I believe I can get everything done in time for the party! *IcandoitIcandoit* :>

Jan 3
All the eyelets but two (the ones on the bodice for the straps which I have to mark when B tries it on) are done! Yay! The stomacher embelishment is done and I started putting on the faux lacing ribbons on. B cut the boning for the stomacher and one haf of the stays before she ran out of cable ties. A trip to home Depot is on order now. :>

I also got that panel re-cut and sew in place. I haven't pressed the seams yet, wanted to wait until the morning when I was fresh. No more crushed panels please!

Jan 6
*waves*

Yes I'm still alive. This week has been insane with insane amounts of costuming, giggling, eating and party prep going on. Not much time for sleep, LJ entries or sanity. It's been fun though and I'm pleased to announce that I'm almost finished with the costuming.

I will probably end up with a bit of sewing to do tomorrow (which I did not want to do) but we did push the party back over an hour than previous years so that gives me a little leeway. Also the table is set, most of the party preps done and I've dressed in my basic costume a dozen times this year. I've even done the hair style before. I'm so glad I went 18th century for the party!! :>

I better get back to my handwork. I'm still working on the stays binding, almost finished with the bottom half. The top half should go much quicker and then I have 3 eyelets and it's done.

Jan 8
Another Twelfth Night party is past! Really I should be in bed but I'm not tired for some reason. The weight of a looming deadline being lifted off my shoulders and too much sugar probably has something to do with it. :>

I finished the last stitch on B's costume at 5pm this evening (the party was at 7pm). Way too close for my comfort but it was the best I could do. I've come to the conclusion that this costume is cursed. No matter how much I sew, I never seem to get any closer to finishing the wretched thing. Sort of like trying to eat pasta at Olive Garden, you eat and eat but you never seem to empty your bowl.

Poor B - she was cheated on and safety pinned in places. Her stays ended up with out-of-the-package-poly-binding while her coat and skirt were barely started.

Of course despite it all she managed to look stunning tonight, if I do say so myself. Her beading was lovely in the low lighting and the velvet may be a pain but it sure is pretty. *sigh* She looks so good in red!

Oh yes this week's pirate progress pics. Not too many I'm afraid, I was too busy just sewing to document things. The last pic was us being a little silly. Narcissa was used as a clothing rack & accessory stand much this week and after piling on a few outfits on accident we decided to add some weaponry to complete the look. This is what happens when you have too much costuming and Cold Stone ice cream combined. :>