Dress Diaries

Empty Pockets: eighteenth century crewelwork pocket


an 18th century crewelwork pocket

Pattern:
Rocking Horse Farms #185

Fabric/Materials:
linen, Dutch linen tape, wool embroidery thread

Synopsis:
My first 18th century pocket and my first real foray into crewelwork.

I adore the finished result! I certainly had a blast doing it. My favorite bit would be the red roses but the little fill-stitched mount and the baby bee (Bridget calls him the Drunk Bee) are close seconds.

 

 

 

Gallery:

October 2004
My first finished crewelwork pocket! *throws confetti*

August 2004
The finished crewelwork.

 

 

 

Dress Diary:

May 2004
I love 18th century pockets. The are such fun and are so useful too. I embroidered the one my mother made me years ago so this time I am going to try my hand at crewelwork. A set of two pockets would be fun but I'm just going to start with one. Crewelwork is new to me but I have wanted to learn to do it for years.

May 25
Today I started my serious design research. I have an idea of the type of flowers and things I want on the pocket (carnations, roses, bees and strawberries - all very "Jenny" things). What I really wanted to find today were pics of period pockets, to build up some references for how designs were typically laid out on the pockets, what stitches were used ect.. I found very little. It was rather discouraging but I'll keep looking around...

June 9

I worked on my 18th century pockets design today. I've been working on it for a while, researching and pondering designs but today was the day I actually sat down and put something on paper.

The pocket shape is from Rocking Horse Farms #185 (scroll down). This was the pattern mom used for my first pocket and the shape and size have been very practical over the years. Why re-invent the wheel? The basic layout of the design was inspired by this pocket. The actual flower designs are from "Art of Crewel Embroidery" by Mildred Davis, an excellent book which is unfortunately out of print now.

I'm very happy with the design. It will be mirrored on the other side, except that I will have a butterfly on one side and a bee on the other. I can't decide which I like best so I'll do both. The roses in the sketch are a temporary design. I want a more of a "Tudor" rose. Also, I will increase the size of the flowers, not the design just the individual flowers. They are a bit too delicate in size for crewel thread.

While I was working on the design my Mom pulled out some crewelwork kits that belonged to my great grandmother. She was very good at crewel, actually winning prizes for her work. There were two half finished pillows that were particularly interesting. The colors are a little wild but her use of stitches was very instructive and inspiring.

So what's next? Humm…I need to finalize the design (resize, new roses) I also need to get more thread. All I have so far is the blue from Williamsburg and the salmon from Liberty of London. Definitely need more colors than that!

June 12

I located a rose I liked in my files. I have no idea where I got the pic (so bad about documenting online finds) but I love the shape and the way it is shaded.

I made the trek this morning to buy the wool thread I need without success. I thought I remembered seeing wool threads at a little shop down-town. My memory was faulty and it turned out to be a silk/wool blend. I coulduse that I suppose but it was quite expensive and I rather have my heart set on wool. The shop recommended trying the local kitting shop. I'll try them later this week.

More bad news awaited me at home. Mum promised me a few weeks ago that I could use some pure linen that was given to her ages ago. I finally got around to locating it in the stash only to discover it's not white. Man! I really had my heart set on a set of pure white underthings. In the past (and ignorance) I have had the less historic unbleached muslin. The linen is lovely, a pretty buttery ivory but I wanted white. *choked sob*

June 14
I decided to blow off all the things I should have been doing today and drove up to G Streets. I splurged on white linen for my pocket. I'm so bad. I bought a full yard of 54" wide so I should have enough for something else, a second pocket or perhaps my bum roll.

June 17

I stopped by the knitting store yesterday but they didn't have anything appropriate for crewel. They weren't terribly helpful actually. I wish people would stop looking at me like I was from Pluto when I mention crewelwork. Really it's bad enough that no one carries it without making me feel slightly like a freak. *sigh*

The yarn lady did recommend the needlecraft shop in Manassas, which I had already found online. Having *nothing* better to do today, I drove the hour to Manassas to see what I could find there. I'm not obsessed or anything… ah right.

Finally, success! I have crewel thread… yay!! There were lots of yummy things in the shop but I stayed focused and just bought the thread I needed. The shop owner was very helpful too. In the end I bought 10 colors, making a total of 12 with the ones I already had. I'm very happy with my colors, I can't wait to get started! *Jenny does a happy dance* Really things should not be this hard though...

June 18

Spent this evening finalizing my pocket design. I tried resizing and tweaking it on the computer but that turned out to be too fiddly. Doing it by hand was much simpler, despite my lack of artistic talent. It took a lot of tracing and re-tracing to arrive at a final product but I had fun. I'm very familiar with the shapes now and I had a chance to think through the stitches and colors as I worked.

I'm very happy with the finial design, although I had to lose the strawberries. It was going to be too much red/pink in that area so for color balance I replaced them with a flower (that will probably be yellow or purple). Bridget's only comment was that the bee looked a little "cutesy" and I rather agree. I had to draw that on my own (based on the bee's of the Queen Bee dress), and it shows. It's not very 18th century looking but it's *me* so I kept it. He's growing on me actually. My linen is washed and ready to be ironed and cut. Hopefully I can get to that this weekend.

June 19
I had a chance to cut out the pocket today. I cut out a square of fabric and marked the cutting lines anyway. I'll run a large running stitch around the marks so they won't fade as I embroider. It's so much easier to use a hoop before the actual shape is cut!

June 26

I had planned to be a good girl today and work on one of the LOTR gowns, either mine or Bridget's (it didn't matter which one as they both need attention). So, how did I spend my day? Embroidering my pocket of course. *slaps hand* Actually, I haven't been feeling well today so a quiet day curled up with embroidery and movies was a good thing.

I'm pleased with the results of my labor. The test piece doesn't look like much I know but it was instructive. I found things that didn't work and things that did. The worst news is that I can't use the salmon thread from Liberty. It actually needlepoint yarn and it's too thick. Blah. I'm a bit stuck on what to do now. I didn't buy another color in two shades, except green. I really think I need two shades for the carnation. Frankly, I'm not going to worry too much about it at the moment. I will work the rest of the embroidery first and do the carnations last. That way if I run out of any of the other colors it will only mean 2 long drives to Manassas, not three or four. It's probably just as well, I'm liking the idea of a yellow carnation instead at this point. :>

My testing ruled out several stitches I was planning on using. Some didn't work or I didn't like them. I actually ripped out a lot of the test work. I went back and looked at my great grandmothers work again. Why I didn't look at them before I tested I don't know. I came up with some more ideas but I was ready to just start and not waste more time and thread on testing.

After dinner I transferred the pattern onto the pocket and began work on it. I have stayed up way too late working and thoroughly enjoying myself. I'm very happy with what I have done so far. The little blue flowers are my favorite. They are a buttonhole stitch. Aren't they cute? *grin* Embroidery is so addictive! It took much will power to put it aside tonight for diary entries and sleeping.

July 3

Yay, pocket picces! All the pics I take come out too dark. There is less contrast in person. Maybe I'll try shooting some pics outside... after this heat-wave is over. You can tell it's 4th of July weekend - it's wicked hot out!

While at hanging out at Borders the other day, I found the very cool Anchor Book of Crewelwork. I saw this while in London but like a dope I didn't by it. It turns out to be exactly what I need. While I have lots of books with stitch diagrams in them, I've found I need a book with pictures of actual crewelwork. I can't figure out how to use the stitches to best advantage on my own. Not enough imagination I guess. The Anchor book is perfect, lots of pics of crewelwork and even some patterns in the back.

Anyway... I'm really happy with the pocket so far. I think I have a very cunning plan for that center carnation too. I haven't actually tried it yet though... There is a carnation in the Anchor book that I like a lot that I think I can do it with one shade of yellow. I'm going to try mimicking it. If that doesn't work... well I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

I'm also going to add a few more bugs to the design. The bee and butterfly look lonely. *smirk* In reality I just like the bugs. I think they are fun. I'll be adding a second tiny bee and a little snail, both from the Anchor book. Can you tell I am having way too much fun with this? *wheeeeeee*

July 5
The pocket was going too well I guess. I thought I had worked out the bugs in the project with the whole finding-a-wool-thread-supplier dance. Apparently not. I was adding the second little bee with an iron transfer pencil and managed to also iron a big blob of blue plastic onto the pocket as well. It's my own stupid fault, I should never have had that thing so close with a hot iron about.

I've put the pocket in the freezer, in the hopes that I can get the majority of the plastic off the textile but I'm afraid the fabric has been stained a lovely bright blue. A half inch strip along the edge of the left side.

How could I be SO stinking STUPID! I could just sit down and weep. It's not even finished yet and... really I could ring my own neck. *waaaaaaahhhhh*

I wonder if I could cut the pocket down so that the blob is incorporated in the seam allowance? Probably not with my luck. Meah!

Oh yes and I can't do the snail. There isn't a good place to put him. I'm bummed. And that was before the blob incident. Did I mention I have a headache, have had one of those "almost headaches" all day? Have I ever mentioned that life in general stinks? Well it does.

July 6

bad news: An evening in the freezer didn't really do anything for the blob. I couldn't get much more off the fabric.

good news: I should be able to cut the pocket down so that the blob is gone or incorporated into the seam allowance unseen.

My blond moment could have been much worse. I still feel very stupid and mad at myself over the whole incident. *sigh*

July 12
Yesterday I did some testing and figured out how to do the carnation. Today I worked on it, mostly while waiting at the dentist's office. I doing know why, but handwork makes the time go by faster than a book. It was nice to have a project small enough to be portable. My handwork lately has been on large, bulky garments, not good to take on office visits or babysitting jobs. :>

August 3
I finished the crewelwork on the pocket today. *throws confetti* I am feeling too lazy at the moment to iron and take pictures of it to show you though. I'll do that later.

I've been working on very on & off on it until yesterday. On my way home from a pleasant day out with Casey, I got a flat tire. Luckily I had my cell phone, AAA card and my pocket with me. I'd brought it along to show off...errr ...I mean show to Casey - so glad I did! I hadn't brought all my threads along but I got as much as I could done with the colors I did have (had an hour and 20 minute wait in the car) before having to be towed home, in a heavy rain storm no less. Such fun!

I finished up the embroidery tonight with Nefret (my kitty) curled up next to me on the couch. She is too adorable, especially when she is in a cuddling mood. *big 'ole grin* I love my kitty!

August 5

Yummy pocket pics! It's all blocked, pressed and ready to be made up into a real pocket. When will that actually happen? Who knows! :>

Overall I'm very happy with the embroidery. I certainly had a blast doing it. I'm not 100% happy with the center carnation but I was ultimately limited by my design and having only one shade of yellow. I did my best and it looks good, if I do say so myself. My favorite bit would be the red roses but the little fill-stitched mount and the baby bee are close seconds.

Sep 10
I just made my very first order with Wooded Hamlet. I've been meaning to do that for months now. *sigh* They seemed very nice on the phone. I ordered some linen tape to bind and use for ties on the pocket and their sample collection. Not very exciting I know but I want to look at the samples before I order anything more.

I guess I should cut out the pocket now so I can whip it together once the tape arrives. I need to shape the embroidered piece as well as cut the back and interlining layers. All the layers will be linen as I'm feeling very extravagant about my beautiful pocket. *grin*

Sep 15

I cut out the pocket layers today. I put three layers in a stack (the embroidered one on top as my pattern) and used a rotary cutter to cut them all at the same time. I had to change the shape a little to eliminate the blue blob and better center the design. The embroidery hoop whacked out the fabric a bit. You can still see a little corner of the blob but that will be hidden under the binding. So that is all ready to go when my Wooded Hamlet order arrives.

Oct 10
I worked on my pocket just a bit today. I pinned the pocket-hole binding, which doesn't sound like much but it did take me a while to do. I folded the ˝" linen tape (from Wooded Hamlet) in half then, wrapped it around the raw edges. The ends of the slit were a bit fiddly to work with, as the tape is stiff, but it was do-able.

I wish I had some linen thread but I didn't think to order any. I'm not willing to wait, so cotton it is...

Oct 11
This evening I stitched the slit binding down by hand using a stab stitch. I figured after spending the effort on the crewelwork I should finish it by hand. I then pinned the tape to the pocket outside edges before my headache took over and I had to stop. My second headache in two days, yuck! The barometer must be changing again. Blah.

Oct 13
I worked on the outside binding tonight. I've stayed up way too late but it's finished. Just the waistband to go..

Oct 14
I sewed on the waistband and gave the pocket a good pressing this morning. So that means the pocket is all finished. *throws confetti*. Yay, the first thing checked of the list for this outfit. A few pics of the pocket on Narcissa are in the gallery now.

 

 

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