Gallery:

October 2005
Another trip to the faire and another wearing of the purple! Yay - pics that show the real color of this frock. More pictures from the day here.

September 2003
At the Maryland Renaissance Faire at last! For more pictures of the day click here!

March 2003
I hope you enjoy these pictures of me in my outfit, even if the sleeves are backwards!

March 2003
Me in the underpinnings... which are very comfortable by the way.

February 2003
Here is the second round of digital camera pictures. Still dark but a little better I think...

February 2003
My Dad surprised me with an "on-loan" digital camera from work for the weekend!

Dress Diary:

September 2002

This is my second attempt at a Renaissance something, the first being my Elizabeth the Beloved costume. After attending a Renaissance Faire last year without a costume I was determined not to be without ever again! So the saga begins!

I have only changed my mind 10 times on what I'm going to make, a Tudor something, a Star Wars dress... well I finally decided to be practical and make an Italian Renaissance dress, like those in the film Ever After. They are simple to make, comfortable to wear and very flattering.

My stash is full of patterns, fabric and all sorts of sewing stuff so I am determined to use what I already have. The fact that I am broke will make it real easy. The plan is to use Period Patterns #41 for the pattern. The gown will be made out an eggplant colored wool I've had for years. I will embellished it with pearls and gold beads.

Sep 15
I know I want to embellish my dress with gold couching and pearls. I'm debating about how much. I'm so inspired buy this chemise - I would love to do something like that (yes I am insane!). On the other hand I was watching Ever After this week (for inspiration :>) and my favorite dress in the film is a simple blood red velvet dress that has only some small, simple gold trim. Intricate or understated; I don't know!

Sep 24

Well I have good news and bad. I finally decided on which dress and sleeve I want but we are not going to make it to the Renaissance Faire this year. We can't get our schedules lined up, October is going to be crazy and I don't have any money to spend at the Faire anyway. I'm bummed.

I going to go ahead with my costume though. I have already invested much time dreaming about it, I have the stuff and no deadlines can't be bad, oui? I will be making Period Patterns #41 View IV with View VI sleeves. I don't know how accurate that is but this dress is for fun anyway.

The outfit consist of:

• camicia
• corded bodice
• dress
• sleeves
• petticoat
• headwear

Embellishment Plans

I have been tinkering with a few ideas, including tons of pearls, couching gold cord, beading and using no embellishment at all.

I had trouble finding a gold cording to couch that was pretty and that I could afford. Instead I found some gold trim I really liked. I don't know how accurate it is but I found it at Jo Ann's and it was about $1.30 a yard - pretty cool!

While looking for pearls I found some great gold beads at Michael's. They are spacers for beaded necklaces. I think they look cool and they are very heavy. I will use them on the ends of the lacings for the sleeve ties. I also have a few to use on the dress itself.

While I was sick with the flu last week I spent my time coming up with designs using all my elements. In the end I created the design to the right. I'm very pleased with it, elegant but simple. It will look great on the purple wool! This trim will go along the neckline as well as the top and cuff of the sleeves. It would be fun to use more on the sleeve and maybe along the hem but I'm going to wait and see how it looks and what my budget is first.

Sep 25
I have hit my first major snag. I was originally going to use my 18th century stays as the foundation for this dress. Not quite period, but comfortable and close enough for me. Well I tried on my stays today and they don't fit anymore! It's good because that means I am losing weight - but bad because I now have nothing to wear with this dress. This is going to take some thought...

Sep 27
After some thinking and research I have decided to make a corded bodice. I got the idea from Jen Thompson. I love the look of her corded bodice and found her detailed information on using hemp cord so inspiring. I had decided long ago I wanted to make one someday, well that day has arrived!

I will be using the hemp cording Jen suggests with two layers of a mustard yellow denim left over from a other project. I may add another layer but I don't know yet.

Oct 1

I have finally located the hemp cord I need in-town. Yeah!! I found it at Wal-mart for $5.00. I don't think it's the best quality stuff but it was a great price and I didn't have to pay shipping. The only thing I can foresee a problem with is that it doesn't have a consistent width. At most places it's 1/8" but in others it's closer to 1/16". Perhaps that is the way hemp cord is and I'm just freaking out over nothing. I think I can work around it regardless.

Oct 3

I have finished making a pattern for my corded bodice. I decided to make a bodice that I can wear with another dress so I will be finishing it as a separate garment. I also decided that the simplest thing would be to use my dress bodice pattern as the pattern for the corded bodice.

I had to make some changes, naturally. I lowered the neckline to insure it won't show underneath the dress and cut away a bit in the back at an angle. Nothing drastic but I thought it could be a little more cone shaped. I also lengthened it a bit. I'm not convinced I won't need to put some steel boning here and there. If I do I want to be able to use the boning I already have in the house, which is a little longer than the original bodice.

I have my pattern all traced out and the pattern for the boning traced as well. I want to make up a muslin of the bodice before I cut my fabric - just to make sure I haven't done anything wrong. I'm pretty excited - I think this is going to be a pretty cool project.

Oct 7

I have been able to work on the corded bodice quite a bit this week.; I am making it out of 2 layers of a mustard yellow brushed denim and one layer of heavy blue jean denim. I know blue jean isn't accurate but it's heavy, free (scraps from a skirt I made last month) and inside where no one will ever see it. So far the bodice has been a wonderful experience but I have hit a snag.

I have boned half the front, which was way easy, but when I sat down and took a good look at the bodice I realized I had no idea how to bone the sides!

The front and back channels are straight up and down but the side is on a diagonal. I based my channel layout on the renaissance corset patterns I've seen (relying heavily on The Elizabethan Corset Page). I'm having a hard time figuring out how I'm going to insert the cord with only one side open. Help! I have e-mailed some wise and more experienced costumers and am waiting to hear back from them.

Camicia Beginnings
Since I am at something of a standstill with my bodice I have started on my camicia. A camicia is an Italian shift, shirt or smock, that garment that goes under the bodice/stays. I am using a very thin, loose weave cotton. It looks like a light handkerchief linen and it was on sale and everything! Again I am using Jen Thompson's pages as a guide. I love the look of her camicia and it looked too easy not to try.

Using Jen's pages and Kass McGann's article as my guide, I cut out all the pieces today. I took all the measurements of myself but they were so close to Jen's own dimensions I ended up going by her numbers. Tomorrow I hope to start the actual sewing...

Oct 12
So far my camicia has gone together like a dream! I have only the neckline to pleat and neckband to attach and it's done. I've been distracted with other things this week so it as taken a little while but it has been way easy. I followed Jen's suggestions quite faithfully and I'm very pleased. The only thing I'm not happy with are my French seams. Because my fabric is so delicate I decided to finished the seams. It worked well but I wish I had made the seams smaller, a little thing I know, but it would have looked better with seams narrower than 3/8". Oh well!

I spent my 'sewing time' yesterday researching what sort of pleats I wanted to use at the neck. I loved Jen's simple smocking but I don't know how to smock so I'm compromising with un-embroidered controlled pleats (cartridge, I guess, is the correct term).

I also experimented with blackwork designs. I want to add embroidery to the neck (and perhaps cuffs). I was hoping to do a counted blackwork but the thread count of my fabric is just too small to work with without a magnifying glass. Since I want to be able to work on it at a retreat I'm going to this month I decided not to bother. Instead I will transfer the pattern into the fabric and go from there. I'm still experimenting with which design I want. I have narrowed it down to two designs from the Blackwork Archives. I am also in a quandary as to whether I should to the embroidery before I attach the neckband (through one layer) or after (through two layers). I think either will work but I'm not sure what to do yet...

Oct 28
When I decided to cartridge pleat the top onto a neckband I didn't realize how labor intensive and time consuming the technique was! I love the result and it was very simple to do but I thought I would never finish!

My Mom tried explaining the technique to me but I was lost so I turned to the internet. There are a quite a few sites that have instructions and diagrams on how to cartridge pleat (or gauge). I am jazzed because I'm a visual person so seeing a technique (in a few different ways) is always better for me. Below are the sites (instructions and pictures) I found the most helpful:

• The Renaissance Tailor - my favorite set of instructions
• Elizabeth Stewart Clark - Civil War period instructions
• Reconstructing History - helpful instructions with good photos
• Drea's Elizabethan Costuming - more good instructions

Oct 30
I have been able to work on my bodice this week. After some research and receiving of advice, I came upwith three options;

Option One:
Hemp bone on the diagonal by cutting out the fabric, boning the pieces with cord and then sewing the boned pieces together. (demonstrated by Sempstress) Since I'm already past that point, this not really an option.

Option Two:
Hemp bone on the diagonal by leaving the side back edges open then binding the raw edges with bias tape. This involves a lot of hand sewing and I am, again, past the point where this would be an easy option. (Thanks Bridget & Sarah for this suggestion!)

Option Three:
Abandon the diagonal boning all to together and going with a more vertical placement. (Thanks for this impute Corey!)

Atthis point I am not willing to unpick and redo most of this bodice so I decided on the third option. A cop-out perhaps, but I look at the list of things left to do in order to complete this project and the list of other sewing projects I want to do in the next few months and have to draw the line somewhere! I also heard that a diagonal side boning layout counts on a certain amount of lengthwise tension being provided by the stiffener so this may be the best option after all.

I was able to finish sewing and boning all the channels today. Because the bodice is cone-shaped (not a rectangle) there are some angled channels. I boned the front to the side seam and the back to the side seam. I then created two channels lined up with the side seam. Rather then leave the left over space (created by the cone shape) blank I stitched channels there too. These channels are not boned but just quilted.

I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. It looks so cool! I'm hoping to try it on for real tomorrow. I need to see how much or if any of the cording should be replaced with steel boning.

Nov 10

I have gotten quite a bit done in the past weeks. I finished my camicia, minus the embroidery (yay!). I tried on the camicia and corded bodice for the first time last week. They both fit perfectly and looked great (if I do say so myself! :>).

I decided to place ½" steel boning in the back of the bodice (next to the lacing holes) and on the side seams. Just that little bit at the side added a lot, giving it a wonderful shape. Unfortunately my original measurements were wrong so I need new boning for the sides. I ordered the boning from Sewing Central today and hope it won't take forever to arrive. (It's my first order from SC so we will see...)

I found I can easily sew through the hemp cord (using a size 18 needle) so I have the cord tacked down in place and all the loose ends trimmed away. I cut out the bias tape for the edge binding this weekend. I thought a contrast would be fun so I used some of the dark purple gown lining fabric for the bias tape. Now I just need the boning, to bind the edges and to create the lacing holes... I can't wait until it's done!

Nov 10

Now that the corded bodice is in good shape I have finally been able to start my gown. So far it has gone together like a dream!

I made a muslin of the gown bodice and tried it on over the corded bodice. I didn't have to alter a thing - way cool! It has only taken me one day to cut out and sew the bodice. That is probably because, for once in my life, I simply cut the pattern and followed the directions (think of that!). The only changes I made were to stay stitch the front neckline and finish the bottom. I still need to create the lacing holes and add the trim but it looks great so far!

I did not follow the pattern for the skirt at all. I simply cut two lengths (fabric width times the skirt length) of fabric and lining. I sewed the lengths together, then sewed the skirt to the lining, finishing the top edge according to The Renaissance Tailor's wonderful instructions.

It was then I discovered a mistake; I had no opening. Good grief! To avoid having a seam down the center front, I cut a new seam down the back (so now I have a seam on each side and one in back). I need to sew up that seam to the opening and finish the opening edges then I will be ready to cartridge pleat. I'm not looking forward to the process of pleating (it's so time consuming) but the finished product will be worth it.

Nov 15

The last corded bodice fitting and a veiw of my temporary lacing strips. They are made of made of blue denim and size "O" grommets.

Dec 5

No, it's not finished yet! Will the handwork never end!! :> The bodice is going well. I have finished the top edge with the purple bias tape. My boning arrived this week so I can now finish the bottom. I love the purple contrast but I did mess it up. I didn't cut the strips wide enough so the contrast is only a narrow 1/8" instead of the bolder ¼" I really wanted. I have more fabric so maybe one of these days I'll re-cut and redo the bias tape. We'll see...

When I decided to hand bind the lacing holes of the bodice, I didn't realize how time consuming it would be (the story of my life, right?!). Not, that I would do it any other way, it's just taking forever! I haven't had good luck with metal grommets staying in and with this garment being made from twill and denim I'm sure grommets would have popped out the first time it was laced.

I read that lacing holes were sometimes re-enforced with metal rings. I loved the idea, especially with the twill, so I am inserting flat washers into the holes, and sewing around them. The washers make the eyelet a bit big but they are very sturdy now. I originally tried using size 8 washers but once I added the thickness of the thread, they were a very snug fit for the lacing cord. I ripped those out and am now using size 10 washers.

helpful Hand Bound Eyelet sites

• The Renaissance Tailor - my favorite set of instructions
• Semptress - also helpful since I lost my awl too...
  

Camicia Gussets
I have tried on my camicia and bodice a few more times. After wearing them for a longer period of time, I found that the underarm area was too snug. I thought the bodice was too high and was it was the thing digging into my underarm area. I cut it down, and that helped a lot, but part of the problem was the camicia.

The under area of the camicia is a bit snug. While using Jen's measurements for the large pieces worked well (according to the formula they should work just fine), because I am larger than her I should have used larger gussets. I think the gusset size is the key to this garment's fit. I will have to make a new one to see if this idea is correct but that is a later project. For now the camicia is wearable and I am continuing to lose weight so I'm hoping it simply won't be a problem for long.

Jan 3
I'm done!! I'm done, I'm done, I done! The underpinnings, (camicia and corded bodice), are totally and completely finished. Whee Hoo!!

The camicia has actually been completed for almost 2 months, I just didn't know it. My plan, if you recall, was to add embroidery to the neckband. I've decided against that for several reasons, not the least of which is the time involved and the so-so fit of the garment. It is still a pretty little thing ~ c'est la vie!

I finished the corded bodice yesterday. It has been finished except for the bottom binding for well... almost three weeks. :> Between the holidays, handmade gifts and my Mom's poor health, I wasn't able to get out the old sewing machine for a good month. I thoroughly enjoyed my holiday season but it felt wonderful to get out the machine yesterday and to actually complete the bodice. :>

Jan 5

No, it's not finished but I'm almost there! I pleated the skirt with 1¼" cartridge pleats. I love the way they turned out. I ended up stitching the skirt to bodice twice. The first time wasn't very secure so I went over it again. I'm not sure I'm doing it right but it works. :>

Adventure in Lacing Rings

My plan was to use lacing rings to fasten the back closure. Having never cared for the look of eyelets I decided to use them on the sleeves as well. The rings I used were brass curtain rings. The full name is Warm Window Insulated Shade System Brass Rings. I had a hideous time finding them so Katherine was kind enough to send me a package. How sweet was that! Thanks Katherine!

Once I began applying the rings it was clear I was not going to have enough. I trotted off to Hancock's to buy the cheap plastic versions (my last resort) when lo and behold, what did I find? The little brass rings! I had looked all over that section and managed to missed them.

It's kind of weird they way they have them, they are kept in a plastic bin, with other small supplies in a corner of the home dec supply area. They are sold individually for 5 cents a piece. The package Katherine sent me came from Jo-Anns. In my search I learned that Jo-Ann does carry that brand of rings but only in the "super" Jo-Anns (the large, grade "A" stores or whatever they call them...). Anyway, thought I would pass that information on for other ring-seekers...

Hems Are A Drag!
Because I fully lined the gown the hems were a bit cumbersome. Have I mentioned before that I hate hems? They are the single thing I hate the most about sewing. Yuck! After Mom pinned the hems for me, it took an entire afternoon to straighten, pin and sew the hems. I cheated on the lining hem and did that on the machine (sue me!) but the rest was done by hand.

I took some of the drudgery out of the process by working to an audio commentary from the Fellowship of the Ring DVD. (The Design Team one if you are really curious.) We got the DVD player and DVD for Christmas so it is still new and interesting. I've also worked on quite a bit of the embellishment while "watching" the Fellowship of the Ring. I will always think of LOTR when I look at that dress! :>

My Favorite Part

The embellishment is the only thing left to finish on the gown. I have tweaked my original concept and pattern of the embellishment a bit.

I decided to embellish the sleeves more, creating vertical stripes with a row of narrow black ribbon, flanked on either side by a row of the gold trim. I changed the pearl placement by removing the long pearls and gold beads and adding smaller pearls to the inside of the trim. The result is very rich. What is it about gold and pearls that is so elegant? All of this has required extra ribbon, trim and pearls of course.

I think I've finally come the realization - the one that all costumers must eventually come to - that embellishment annihilates one's budget. All I can say is thank God for Jo-Ann's 50% off coupons!

I finished tacking down the ribbon and trim along the bodice neckline last night. I decided on black ribbon flanked on one side with the trim. It's nice to see some color on the dress, I can't wait to see what the pearls do for the gown!

So that's all, the bodice pearls and a sleeve and a half left to embellish. Think I can finish it by February 1st? Hey! No snickering from the peanut gallery!! :>

Jan 7
I have finished the gown! I still have the sleeves to finish but the gown itself is done. I just tried it on for the first time with the jewelry and one (almost fully beaded) sleeve and everything. In fact, I still have the gown on right now. :> It's so comfortable I may wear it for the whole afternoon! I wish I had a digital camera so ya'all could see too, it looks so cool!

Feb 3
I'm done! (and the crowd goes wild!) I actually finished everything a week or so ago but haven't had time to post. I took pictures yesterday and am off this morning to put the film in to be developed.

Feb 4

I must admit that headwear is the part of historical costume that gets me the least excited. I was sort of hoping I wouldn't have to worry about this part of the ensemble but when I tried on my gown for the first time, I found I really needed something on my head to complete the look. So I began...

I love Juliet caps anyway but I totally fell in love with one in the Italian Renaissance Costumes paper dolls (by Tom Tierney). It is featured on Plate Two and is described as "...a reticuled (or network) cap trimmed in pearls..." I have no idea how period correct it is for my gown but I don't care!

I used a wide crocheted headband for my pattern. I traced the headband onto tissue paper (minus the ties), then used the paper pattern to cut out the basis of the cap. I used some black point d'esprit scraps for that.

I then cut and tacked down lengths of leftover 3/8" black grosgrain ribbon at an angle all across the point d'esprit. I did the same thing in the other direction, creating a large network pattern.

The ribbon and point d'esprit were pretty stiff and I was concerned about the cap sticking out in an odd way so I ran gathering stitches across both sides and fitted the cap to my head. I then ironed another length of ribbon in half (widthwise) and slipped that over the unfinished cap edge. I then slip-stitched all the layers together. It was a little tricky with the thin ribbon but I managed to do it.

I then ironed the cap (with steam), which rather flattened it again but it retained enough of the shape to work. I then sewed on the pearls with gold thread. I used larger, pre-strung Christmas garland beads on the cap.

Overall it looks pretty good. It's really nothing special and I'm sure there is a better and easier way to make one but it does the job. :>

March 10

Wow - it has taken forever for me to post the pictures of me in the outfit. I was sorry more good shots did not come out but it is just as well since I have discovered that my sleeves are on backwards! What a totally lame mistake!

I tried them on both ways, because the pattern illustration was not clear. The "puffs" towards the fronts seemed the most comfortable and to fit better so I assumed that was the way they were meant to go. I did not bother to research it at all - bad, bad Jenny!

Apparently the puffs are always to the rear on Italian gowns such as mine. (Thanks so much for your help Ben!!) Originally I liked them better towards the front but after seeing the pictures of it on me I will admit I prefer them toward the back. It's just more elegant.

*sigh* I will have to re-do the lacing rings probably and re-take the pictures. A rather discouraging thought but I'm determined to get it right.

Facts & Figures
For those of you who like numbers, I have estimated the amount of pearls and trim used on my gown:

• pearls (varying sizes) - approx 955
• gold trim - approx 4 yds
• ribbon - ¼" black grosgrain - approx 14 yds
• gold beads - exactly 19

Merci!
I want to throw in a big thanks to all those who helped me on this project. The gown and the journal have been a blast, I'm a little sorry to see the project end! Special thanks to Mummy, Bridget & the Pizana girls for putting up with my moods, saying "wow that's great" when I asked you to, letting me watch LOTR over and over again and helping me to dress. A big merci beaucoup to Jen Thompson for sharing your costumes on such a detailed site, for answering my never-ending questions and for all your encouragement!

Sep 9

I finally wore my outfit in public! I wore it to the Maryland Renaissance Faire. For the Faire I wore the outfit just as I had made it, after having fixed the sleeves of course. I also made a feather fan, in the English style, that hung from my waist.

It was a decent day for August in Maryland, but I was really glad I had the fan (and I pinned up my hair!). I was only able to wear my beautiful sleeves for 20 minutes. It was just too hot. I have to admit I felt a little undressed without my pretty sleeves but what is a girl to do!

To keep my 36" long camica sleeves out of the way I simply folded them over and pinned them at the top with a highly inaccurate safety pin. It worked beautifully and was very cool and comfortable. Good thing I finished the seams since they showed all day! What did I do with my wool sleeves? I hid them under my skirts by tying them to the waist tape of my pocket. No one ever knew they were there and I didn't have to walk back to car! I wish these moments of brilliance came along more often. :>

I wore the outfit for about 16 hours in total ... some musings...

Little Ideas that Worked

• fully lining the dress - This meant I didn't have to wear a petticoat (= another layer). It was easy to move my skirts around and get a nice breeze under them.
  
• wearing the hemp corset - Oh so comfortable, actually cooler and more comfortable than a sports bra and much more historic looking!
  
• using all natural fibers - Okay, I'll admit I was a little skeptical about wearing a wool dress in August but really it wasn't bad at all. I did get hot sitting in the full sun but I think that was due to the color more than anything.

Things to Change Next Time

• the color - When I choose a deep-purple-practically-black wool I didn't think about wearing it in a summer sun. As long as I was in the shade I was okay but the sun was murder, especially with the sleeves on. So wool - yes, dark color - no! Not for a summer out-door event in any case.
  
• corset was too short - I made my corded bodice to end above the waist (1-2"). This meant I had no lower back support, right where all the pressure from my bodice and heavy skirt hit. After hours on backless benches my back was not happy. Next time I'll lengthen the corset to end at my waist, no matter where the waist of my gown is.
  
• no pocket slits - I decided long after the dress was finished that I didn't want to carry a purse or basket or anything at the Faire. I have an 18th century pocket but having it tied under my skirts made it difficult and a bit immodest to get to. In the end I put non-essentials (Band-Aids, driver's license) in the pocket and carried a reticule on my wrist. Next time I'll just have a slit in the skirt side so I can reach my pocket. I don't know how period that is but it's practical and secure.