August 2004
I am so pleased with this outfit! For more pics of my day at the Faire click here!

August 2004
The finished corded bodice - isn't it cute? I was extremely comfortable all day at the Faire!

July 8 2004

Bridget and I have decided to go to the Renaissance Faire twice this year. That means one trip in August, (the same time we went last year) and one in October. The Rohan gown is too hot for August, especially as I get to wear it again in October. My original plan was to tweak the purple Italian Ren gown. It's too big now and the sleeves proved to be too hot last year for an Aug day. I also need a new corded bodice. The original one is also too big and it did not provided enough lower back support. Very important at a Faire, that.

Then I started thinking… (always a dangerous thing!) It would probably be the same amount work to just make a new Italian Ren gown. Something simple, (and more importantly) cool and comfortable.

I does occur to me (often) that I am a bit crazy to be making this gown on such short notice. At least I'm not crazy enough to try and make it perfect and accurate. I did want to try the side-lacing things though. It's something I haven't done yet.

On the whole, I'm trying not to do anything too wild and unfamiliar – that is where I get bogged down in projects and end up stressed and finishing the gown at 3am the day of. I think I can risk the side lacing though, it seems a simple enough alteration.

I want something with simple decoration, few accessories and small sleeves. I also wanted to use the same pattern I used for the purple wool. That narrowed me down to the earlier Italian Ren period, the late 15th century. I always end up there so I guess it is my favorite.

If I can be accused of modeling my gown after anything, it would be this yellow gown. It's so simple and pretty. I hate the cap (I'll have to come up with something else) but I like the little partet. I don't know that I will have time to make one though.

I went through the ole' fabric stash yesterday and actually found some fabric that would work! Nothing terribly historic but I'm going for comfortable and do-able in 4 weeks - not totally accurate. I pulled out three options, a khaki twill, a green rayon twill and a rusty brown linen/rayon. At the moment I'm thinking the gown will be either khaki or rust. If the gown is khaki, then the sleeves will be rust. If rust, then the sleeves will be green. For a bit of embellishment, I will probably add some ribbon to the bodice and perhaps the skirt as well.

Yes I am crazy to do all this but, well, I'm feeling reckless at the moment. :>

July 9

I started work on the new corded bodice today. I didn't get too far with it as I wasn't feeling well most of the day. Lacing in and out of a toile multiple times didn't appeal.

I decided, for the first time in my sewing career, to not cut a separate toile but to use the actual lining fabric. In this case a blue-jean denim. The first toile I cut longer and a bit smaller than my original pattern. I also changed the sleeve so that it will tie at the front, not be a part of the actual bodice. I tried that on, or attempted too. It was still too big. I marked where the bottom should be then I took it off and cut it down again. That is as far as I got.

July 10

I finished fitting the corded bodice toile today. I ended up taking 3" off the original pattern. Every time I tried it on it was too big or didn't provide a gap, so I kept cutting it down. Not that I have probably lost 3 whole inches since October 2002 (when the pattern was originally drafted) as I had to take the stretching of the fabric into account in those 3 inches. Still it's pretty cool!

I started sewing the channels this evening. I didn't actually cut out the second mustard twill layer. I barrowed a technique from Mara Riley's site of basting the cut lining pieces to an uncut section of fashion fabric. I was thinking of constructing my 18th century stays this way so I made the bodice a bit of a "guinea pig project". So far I'm happy with the technique.

I finished the front panel but made a mistake when I started on the side pieces. I forgot to change the setting on my machine and sewed several rows with a large basting stitch. I'll have to re-do those. It was a sure sign I needed to stop for the night so I have.

July 11

I finished sewing the channels today. I also sewed the seams on the bodice. I'm going to cord the channels and then trim everything at once. I still need to cut out the lining and binding…

The close-up is of the outside of the seam. After I sewed the seam I graded the ends down a bit, then ironed it towards the back and tacked it down about half way through the seam. It made it much flatter and less bulky.

July 12

I spent my morning at the dentist, and the rest of the day recovering. Luckily cording channels is very brainless and almost relaxing work. I kept to an uncomplicated pattern; no one ended diagonal channels. I'm trying to keep things simple with my deadline fast approaching.

Once the bodice was full of hemp, I ran a basting stitch through the bottom (so nothing gets pulled out of place) and trimmed the edges. I left the sleeves as I didn't want to deal with them in my post-dentist loopy state.

July 15

I cut and attached the lining to the corded bodice today. I very scientifically laid the bodice on an old sheet and cut around it. Okay, so I did line up the grain first. Old sheets are wonderful things!

I attached the lining to the two back edges. I then decided to add steel boning to the side seams. I was really pleased with the results of doing this last time. I had to wrestle with the pieces a bit to sew a length of bone casing to the inside of the lining. I love out it's so tidy on both the out and inside now. Very much worth the effort. *giggle* I then ran a basting stitch all round the bodice edges to keep the lining in place before I get the binding on.

I thought I had some left-over purple binding from the last corded bodice but apparently not. I can't find it anyway. I think I'm going to wait to bind the bodice until after I work on the dress a bit. I want to make sure the bodice won't show at all and I want to see which fabric I end up using. I don't want a dark binding to show beneath that khaki. Very tacky.

July 16

I spent my sewing time today working the eyelets on the bodice. They are all done now and look pretty good. I didn't spend a lot of time on them but they are still better than those nasty grommets. I hate those things! Anyway, with the eyelets in it's all ready to be tried on and have a dress toile fitted over it...

July 18

I tried on my corded bodice for the first time today. Overall I'm pleased. The gap in the back is a good 3.5 inches but I'm cool with that. Maybe I'll get to wear this one more than once this time. :> Also I wasn't able to get it laced as tight as I wanted. I'll need assistance for that. I decided I wasn't hip on the sleeves after all so I'm going to cut them off entirely. I didn't have anyone around to take pics so I tried the old, take them with a mirror trick. Worked pretty well, although the back shot is a bit blurry.

I also sewed up the gown bodice toile and tried that over the corded bodice. It fits perfectly.

Now that the bodice toile is ready to go I need to decide what fabric to use. Any votes between the rusty brown linen/rayon and the khaki rayon twill? I am having a hard time deciding and I really should so I can cut the gown out. The rust makes my hair turn a gorgeous red and it looks like a period fabric even if it's a blend. The khaki is a lighter and therefore cooler color for summer and it would drape nicely.

July 19
I was going to be good and get some everyday stuff done today, then sew on Wednesday but after seeing all the loveliness at Elegant Musings I couldn't stand it and cut out my Faire Garb dress.

After much drooling over her frock, I decided to lengthen the bodice of my dress a bit. I really love the fitted, pointed waist of her gown. As I started looking at paintings again this morning, I noticed that some of the waists in the late 15th century (my "aim") were lower as well, if all rounded. A bit of length was an easy adjustment so I went for it. The waist is about 1.5 inches above the waist now, rather than the higher waist of the original pattern.

The rust overwhelmingly won the vote (thanks so much ladies - you are the best!) so that is what I cut. I'm excited to wear this color, I love it so! I especially love what it does for my complexion and hair. *wink*

Bridget and I had some shopping to do tonight so I only got as far as cutting the rust fabric before I had to stop. I left the skirt panels as rectangles but I'm thinking about shaping them. Still pondering that… I still have the lining and sleeves to cut. For the lining I'm using a "tea" colored muslin I've had for years. I have tons of it, it's easily replaced if I need it someday and I'm ready to get it off the shelf.

I pulled out some options for the sleeves out of the fabric stash, notably a light purple polished cotton but I'm going to wait to cut them out until after my trip to G Streets tomorrow. Maybe I'll find something better on the bargain table...

July 20

I found some pretty rose linen at G Streets, which in the store I loved with the rust of the Faire Garb. However, now that I am home doubts have begun to creep in. Ummm....

I also found some pretty peach organdy. It's a poly I'm sure but it was the thickness I wanted for my partlet. Now I just have to figure out how to make one. I may use it for a hair caul too… at the moment I want to try hair taping so I may not need one.

I finished cutting the gown tonight and plan to start sewing tomorrow. I did angle the skirt panels a bit. I laid them out, measured 6" from one edge, angled it down to the bottom with a yard stick and cut away. I didn't want anything too complicated but I did want the bottom to flare a bit more than the last gown.

While I worked I threw that linen in the wash. I'm thinking it may be a blend. Now that it's wet it does feel totally natural, if you know what I mean. No big. I still love the color.

July 21
I started on the skirt today. I didn't get too far on it though, just got the cotton lining put together and pressed. I also machine basted the rust and muslin interlining bodice pieces together. I've experienced the slipping, stretching and overall naughtiness of linen/rayon in the past. Mounting the rotten stuff to an interlining seemed a prudent step.

July 22

I have been waffling with myself all week about that rose linen. I've changed my mind about 10 times already. Yesterday I was all ready to use it and this morning I didn't like it anymore. I thought very seriously about using it, just as one side of a reversible sleeve. My thought was, if I decided I didn't like it with the rust I could always wear it with the purple wool. In the end, however I decided that I agreed with Casey comment that it was "just a little to 'eh'".

I wasn't sold on the green I had found the stash though. So I raided the scrap bin. Why I didn't think of that sooner, I really don't know! I found a green rayon I liked much better, as well as a light blue I thought would be a fun contrast. I have to line the sleeves anyway so I figure I might as well make some fun reversible sleeves. I then raided the ribbon stash and found some pretty green ribbon that goes with the green rayon perfectly. I tried going with more subdued, dark purples and black trims but they just looked drab. The effect of the greens, rust and blue is bright and fun and I'm happy. Bridget doesn't like it, but then again she hasn't said anything positive about the whole outfit yet so I'm ignoring her on it. Whatever.

I cut out the new sleeves, as well as the bodice lining, which I had forgotten. I also finished putting the skirt together today. Sewing the linen/rayon pieces was less traumatic than I feared it would be. That fabric really is a pain! I'm so glad that is the last piece of it in the house, as I don't plan on ever working with it again!

I was afraid the linen/rayon/cotton lined results might be too limp. Unfortunately I didn't have any felt or wool laying around (the two suggestions I'd read online) so I just used some iron-on interfacing. I actually used waist-band interfacing, cutting it in half and ironing it on. The skirt is hanging up now, all ready to be cartridge pleated. Fun, fun!

July 24

I finally got around to pinning and attaching the ribbon to the bodice today. All of the trim was attached by hand. Ouch! I really need to learn to use a thimble!

The front was fun to piece and everything. I had some issues trying to match the curve in the back but eventually got it to work. The key was many pins, hand sewing and then lots of steam. Steam pressing really is a beautiful thing. It makes me look like I know what I'm doing more often than I actually do.

I need to look at some pics and see if I want to add trim to the sleeves. I'm thinking I may just leave them untrimmed. That way I can save the ribbon for tieing on the sleeves, or maybe even to trim the bottom of the skirt.

July 29

I sewed the front and back bodices to their respective linings this evening. I apparently made a mistake on the shoulder straps though, as they don't match (the front is wider than the back). So before I can join the shoulders, I'll have to redo the front, turning it inside-out again and trimming a little. No big. I also got the sleeves pinned so they are ready to be sewn.

I had to try the corded bodice on tonight to double check something on the bodice, so I took some pics. Mom was available to lace me up nice and tight but wasn't available to take pics so I took them in the bathroom mirror again. I have some of that blue cotton left over from the sleeves so I think I use it for binding of the CB. I've always like the combination of blue and yellow.

Aug 4

I have sleeves! Finally got those sewn up today. I just need to do something to attach them to the gown bodice. I think I'm going to just do some hand-bound eyelet holes, as the sleeves are supposed to be reversible. I'll have to do lacing rings on the shoulder strap, though, to avoid interfering with the ribbon trim.

I know the sleeves don't look like much on Narcissa, sorry about that. Unfortunately I can't really try them on until I can lace the bodice up, which I can't do until I make eyelets, which don't want to do until I attach the skirt, which must be pleated first… oy.

To-do list for the Faire Garb:
pleat & attach skirt
apply trim to skirt
hem skirt
mark & sew eyelets on bodice side
mark & attach lacing rings to shoulder straps (don't want to do eyelets because of the ribbon)
mark & sew eyelets on sleeves
buy/find ribbon to lace sleeves & bodice sides
cut and apply binding to corded bodice

fix feather fan/ make new one
make new camica?
make partlet?
make headdress?
experiment with hair
trim straw hat?

Umm…. Looks like I still have a bit to do. Mostly handwork… yummy! I'll have to wait for a finial decision on the camica question until I can actually try on the gown and sleeves. I suspect the camica sleeves will be too big for this, more middle class garb. A new camica would be nice, this one is still a little on the small side (see my 2002 Ren dress diary). I just don't have any appropriate fabric and don't want to buy more if I don't have to. More spending money at the faire you know. *wink*

Aug 7

My faire dress is now a dress! In other words, my bodice and skirt are attached. I started yesterday, getting the pleating and pining done. I sewed down all the pleats, with doubled thread so it's very sturdy. I finished up today with the sewing together part. I wish either cartridge pleating weren't so pretty or so monotonous! :>

I also did the math and marked the eyelets. I got all the holes started with my sharp awl but then decided to call it a night. So I have all the hard work on the eyelets to go before I get to try it on. Pics are of the skirt pinned (yesterday), then attached (today).

Aug 13
I haven't done much sewing this week. Okay, so make that haven't done any sewing. Motivation issues mostly. I have been working on the Faire Garb eyelets tonight though. I'm proud of me. I've got almost half of the wretched things done already. I thought I would take a little break, by hopping on the computer, before I popped The Two Towers in. I love those movies! That's all for now I think... yep. I'm ready to face more eyelets and TT. Or at least a few more eyelets and part of TT.

*trots off to carry on with eyelet fun*

Aug 15

I finished up the gown eyelets today. Then, I tried on the whole outfit. It's looking good if I do say so myself. I marked where the sleeve eyelets need to go and am waiting for Mom to help me mark the hem. Yep wearing the dress as I type. :>

A few other fixes made themselves apparent as well. The camicia sleeves are definitely too long. At this point rather than make a new one, which I'm not real excited about doing, I think I am just going to hem the sleeves up a bit. Six inches should do it. I also need to sew a hook and eye below the gown lacing so the skirt doesn't gap there. One large hook one each side should do it.

The biggest thing is that the corded bodice is just not terribly comfortable. Not sure what to do about that. It's fine standing up but when I sit down it digs into my waist and gapes most annoying at the midriff area. I want my midriff compressed not sticking out more than normal!

I think the problem may be that it's too long, I think it's actually a little below my waist in places. I'm going to try trimming it down. I'm also thinking about maybe cutting off the front point (perhaps that is exacerbating the problem?) and/or adding a busk in the center front. I don't know. I didn't have any of these problems with the last one which makes it doubly annoying. Good thing I haven't put the binding on huh?

Aug 23
Life really needs to stop getting in the way - I have costuming deadlines here!!! I have 4 days to finish up the Faire Garb. I'm trying not to panic. Really it's not that bad, it's just a bunch of last minute little stuff.

I hemmed up the camica and finished the eyelets on the sleeves last night. That leaves the hems, hooks & eyes, trimming the hat and fixing the corded bodice. I'll have to forgo the partlet, cap, new fan and the other accessories I'd been thinking about. Oh well. The bodice is what I'm most worried about at this point.

I decided to use some pre-made bias tape on it. If you will recall, I was going to use blue to contrast but all the pre-made blues were funky colors. So I picked up a dark Christmas red instead. I need to make another trip to Jo-Anns. Now that I am cutting the bodice down, all my boning is too long. I was going to use cable ties but I could only find a huge package and frankly didn't want to spend that much. So I'll substitute with some Regiline. At least that is easy to sew and easy to remove, if I ever want to replace it with steel. Of course I couldn't have thought of that while I was already at the store yesterday...

Teddy e-mailed me last week with the interesting suggestion of creating tabs, instead of just cutting the bottom off. I'm not sure it will work, as the bodice is only an inch or so too long but I'm going to try that first. No harm, as I can always cut them off if it doesn't work.

Aug 23

This week started out pretty good but it has quickly gone downhill. This afternoon I begin working on the Faire Garb. I sewed on the hook & eyes where the skirts meet. Then I tried lacing it up with the new ribbon I'd bought. Disaster sturck.

When I had tried the gown on for the first time, the lacing wouldn't come out even for some reason. I didn't really worry about it as it was a quick try-on to mark the sleeves and hem. When I went to lace the new, I discovered why the lacing was not even. One side has 9 holes and one side has 8. I have NO idea how I did that. I'm not even going to go into how that discovery make me feel. Somewhere around the size of a seed bead I think.

So I have lovely lacing holes that are un-even. This means that they are neither lined up for spiral nor cross-lacing. Great. I looked at the costume, with the hem to do, the corded bodice uncomfortable and not fitting well ect… and only 3 days to go. Yeah. I began to consider looking for some matches. That is always a bad sign.

So I threw the garb in my closet, played some computer games and called elegant_musings. We talked for a couple of hours and she helped calm me down. Sometimes it just helps to talk with someone who understands. Merci Dearest!

Towards the end of our conversation I had a moment of brilliance. I could cover the holes with ribbon and then sew lacing rings on the inside. If that does not work, there is always the Rohan gown. I will probably faint from the heat but I could wear it.

Aug 24
Three days left to work on my costume so how did I spend my day? I picked up, dusted and vacuumed my bed/sewing room. Then I rearranged my bookshelves, went through and reorganized my hope chest, reorganized the boxes under my bed, organized my stationary, went through and rearranged my dresser drawers, went through recipes, cooked dinner… In short: nothing to do with sewing. Despite the time crunch I couldn't deal with sewing today.

I feel much better with my newly de-cluttered and organized room. I got rid of a whole box of stuff and threw away a full trash can – that always makes me feel good. I don't really regret taking the day off though I am pretty skeptical about getting the Faire Garb done in time. I've decided not to worry about it. If I get it done great, if not I'll wear the Rohan. Unless it rains and then I'm screwed. A big whopping oh well.

If I'm not enjoying the process and am just stressing myself out making these costumes, what is the point? This is a hobby that I supposedly do for fun. I just don't need self-induced stress this week, I have enough to handle thank you.

Aug 25
So today I'm off to Hancock's for lacing rings and Jo-Ann's for Regline. Then I'm planning to tackle the corded bodice. If I can't work out those issues there is no point in bothering with the dress tomorrow.

Aug 25 - later that day
Why is it that running errands always takes forever? You go out for 3 things and suddenly you have 7 errands to run. They multiply like rabbits! Anyway...

I mostly worked on the corded bodice today. I measured, cut the little tabs and then tried it on. It was amazing the difference! It didn't "pooch" or buckle out anymore! Yay!

I found that my 1" tabs were still lower than my natural waistline so I took the bodice off again and slashed them up another ½". I tried the bodice on once more and found that did the trick. The pooch was practically gone and the bodice was very comfortable. The midrift area still looked a little large but I think that is because I am used to busks and flat fronted corsets. The round shape looked perfect once I tried the dress on – very period - so I am happy.

I decided in the end to not put Regeline in the center front. Everything was working so I didn't want to mess with it. I just replaced the side and back boning with it instead. To fit in the little back channels I just folded it in half and stuffed it down there. It worked great!

Unfortunately the one thing I forgot to get while I was running errands was the binding. I'd picked up single fold tape instead of double fold this weekend. I'll have to run out and get some double fold tomorrow.

Aug 27

Well I'm not going to be able to finish the Faire Garb tonight like I wanted to.*sigh* It's almost 1:30am already and I'm getting very sleepy. My hands are also starting to cramp. So close!

The corded bodice binding has taken MUCH longer than I thought/hoped it would. Those wretched tabs. I'm about ¾ of the way done with the bottom (tab) end. So I have just a bit of the bottom left and all the top. I also need to make a new eyelet hole in the corded bodice (so they are even again) and trim my hat.

I was sort of hoping I might be able to throw a quick fan together tomorrow. I wanted something similar to this, as the feather one I made last year is too much with this outfit. There is no way it will happen now with company to pick up, fake hair to curl/braid, errands to run, so much hand sewing left to do and an early rack time tomorrow night. Umm... I probably should vacuum before my company comes too. There are threads and snips of ribbon everywhere. I'll just have to deal with a non-period folding fan. Oh well. Next year, right?

Aug 27 - later that day

I finished up the hand sewing on the binding in good time today. While I worked on trimming the hat Nefret decided she loved the bodice. I think she likes the smell of hemp. Too much cute kitty-ness going on so I snapped a pic.

The various fake hairs are curled and braided. Bridget was nice enough to do that so I could sew. I still have to iron my dress, cut the ribbons for the sleeves then shower and put my hair in curlers. Then I get to go to bed so I can get up at the ungodly hour of 5am tomorrow. I am not a morning person. The things I do for costuming!

Aug 30
Pics from the Faire are now in the gallery!