Costume Précis

Elizabeth the Beloved


my 1998 Renaissance costume


In the Beginning...
I made this costume in the fall of 1998. Our church had a big "Harvest" shin-dig around Halloween as an out-reach to the community and a safe place for the kids to dress up and play games. I take any excuse to dress-up in costume and harvest time is always a perfect time for it! Although we had wardrobes full of costumes, I felt the need for something new to wear to the party.

More specifically I felt the need for an Italian Renaissance something. I had just seen the film Ever After and my sister, Bridget, and I were inspired. So with a little money, two weeks and some heavy sighs from our Mum we began.

Bridget went for a pure Italian Renaissance ensemble, made from a historic pattern in our collection. I thought that pattern would be too complicated and I wanted something simple; a costume that would actually be finished by October 31st. As it turned out, I spent a full week on my dress, (so full of challenges and snags that I considered making it part of the bonfire at one point), while Bridget spent two calm, simple days on her dress (+ beading). Why me?!


Ever After

Costume Specifications

My outfit consisted of a dress, detachable sleeves, a shift, a petticoat/underskirt, a Juliet Cap and a mask. Oh yes and the jewelry.

For the dress, I used Simplicity 7756, for the sleeves, Period Patterns #41 (view V) and for the shift, Eagle's View PM55. I didn't use a pattern for the petticoat, Juliet cap or mask.

I chose the Simplicity pattern because I thought it would be easy and I wanted something that would flatter me. I have an "hourglass" type figure so clothing that accentuates my waist is always good. At the time, it was also the only Renaissance pattern I actually liked. (The selection of Renaissance type costume patterns is so much better now!)

My biggest challenge was the fabric. I wanted something heavy and "Renaissance" but I had very limited funds. I was very, very lucky and found some upholstery fabric at Wal-Mart for $2.50 a yard. The colors were perfect for me! I also found a more "silky" fabric for the under skirt for $1.00 or 2.00 a yard (I don't remember now). Thanks to Wal-Mart I actually spent more on my jewelry than I did my sewing supplies! I adore Wal-Mart!!!

I ended up with a pretty costume that wasn't really anything, almost a Tudor-type look but not really. In deciding "who" I was going to be, I was stumped. In the end I threw accuracy out the window and modeled myself Elizabeth, Princess of York (future Queen of England and mother of Henry VIII), hence the title of this dress diary. :>

Construction Notes

The bodice was simple to put together. I changed the neckline, making it square to be more flattering then raising it a bit to be more modest.

The bodice was three layers, the fabric (which is a thick upholstery cotton blend), fusible webbing and lining. I choose to self-line the bodice so once I added the feather weight boning to the front it was as good as corset!

I decided not to use the skirt pieces from the Simplicity pattern as they were pretty wimpy. Instead I made my own skirt by cutting 3 panels (55" wide by waist-to-floor measurement) and sewing them together. I then knife-pleated the skirt (with 1" pleats) until it fit the bodice.

I had to hand-sew the skirt to the bodice because with as many as 9 layers of the upholstery fabric, it was too thick for my Mom's poor sewing machine!

The dress turned out wonderfully heavy with the skirt draping beautifully. I do have to be careful when I wear it though. It weighs a ton so if I don't sit frequently my knees and legs really ache the next day.

I chose to use a sleeve from one of our historic patterns. The sleeves were really fun and easy to make...until I had to put in all the grommets that is.

The shift was made from an historic pattern as well. I used to same pattern that Mom had used during our 18th century school project. I made my shift out of un-bleached muslin, adding full length sleeves and a ruffle at the cuff.

The petticoat was made in the same fashion we used to make our Civil War skirts. I took 3 panels of fabric (45" wide by waist-to-floor measurement) and sewed them together (leaving a gap in back so I could get into it). I pleated them with tiny ¼-½" pleats then gathered the pleats until it fit my waist band.

The Picces

 

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