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June 2003
What is a Busk Anyway?
When I began researching for my c1820 stays I found the term "busk" to be very confusing. The "technology" changed but the name did not so what is a busk depends on what time period you are referring to.
A Very Short History of the Busk
Busks seem to have arrived in the 16th century. They gained popularity throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. These busks were made of wood, ivory and whalebone. They were placed in the center front of the bodice or stays, in a busk pocket, and tied into place with "busk lacings". In the 18th century, it became fashionable for the busks to be narrower at the bottom than the top.
The arrival of the high-waisted "Empire" or "Regency" fashions saw drastic changes in corsetry. The busk, however, was as necessary as ever. It was not until the coming of the fashion for small waists and tight lacing in the 1840s and 1850s that the straight wooden or ivory busk was discarded.
Busks made their reappearance in the 1860s looking quite different from their processors but with the same name. The new front-opening busks consisted of two steel stays, one with metal loops, the other with metal studs over which the loops fit when closed. This type of busk was used up until the girdles of the 1920s.
Regency & Romantic Period Busks
Busks of the early 19th century were made of the traditional materials of wood, ivory, horn and whalebone. These materials were sometimes lavishly carved or scrimshawed. They were thin (no more than 3/16" thick), 1½-2" wide, and 12-15" long with rounded ends.
The main difference between the 1800-1825 busks and the 1825-1840 busks seems to be the thickness, the later busks being thinner but I'm not 100% sure about that. The busk making instructions in my pattern calls for a finished busk of 1/8" thick.
A Busk for Me
There is discouragingly little information on these early 19th century busks and I have yet to find someone who sells them pre-made. Luckily the pattern I'm using has both very good historical notes and directions on how to make one. If you are interested in making your own Regency/Romantic period busk, this pattern is a great resource!
I, however, am a lazy person and didn't feel like going to all the bother of getting out the wood working tools for my stays.
The best "cheater" suggestions I've found are to use either Plexiglas, a paint stick or a 14" ruler. My first thought was to use a paint stick (we have tons in the house) but mine were a bit too short (11-12"). I looked around town for a 14" ruler with no luck. I was looking in my Mom's desk drawer the other day and found two 15" wooden rulers. Hot dog! We got them ages ago at the Virginia State Fair. The ruler is an 1/8th of an inch thick and should just fit in the busk pocket, lengthwise, once the binding is sewn.
So look around your house and think outside of the box - you'll be amazed at what you can find! |
